120°F is high for PbSO4 isn't it?  I always heard to keep the temp during
charging below 100°F.

There is a JLD temperature controller at around $30 on amazon, or at least
that is what I paid a couple years ago.  JLD612 if memory serves.  Same
weird passwords and parameter entry, does PID contorl.  Seems to last OK
 for so cheap.  You need a thermocouple.  Which you can make from a
thermocouple wire with a solder and a torch.  I braze mine with phos
bronze, but it is a little tricky.

I have been thinking about pipe tape for this...with a controller.  You
could weave a length of pipe tape among the cells, or fix it to a plate of
aluminum.


On Fri, Jan 10, 2014 at 11:55 AM, Zeke Yewdall <[email protected]> wrote:

> How about the heating matts for greenhouses.... they are designed to have
> dirty pots of plants put on top of them, and water and all.  They seem to
> limit to about 120F even when sandwiched between foam insulation, and look
> fairly robust... about 15 watts per square foot, so not too much power....
>  I'm thinking about doing them for the EV bug conversion when I put the
> lithium batteries in.  It's not a wintertime car anyway -- not having any
> defrost or heat either, but I'm thinking of days when it's 50's and sunny
> during the day, but still dropping down into the low 20's at night -- when
> it would be charging.  The BMS will turn the charger off if the battery
> temp is too cold, but it would be nice to be possible to charge then.
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 10, 2014 at 1:18 AM, Martin WINLOW <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > This issue is one of the advantages of using an electric (bed-type)
> > blanket as the fluffy material the heating wires are sandwiched in - in
> > combination with a flat tray floor and protective, relatively hard layer
> > between blanket and cell bottoms - avoids point load problems that might
> > lead to damage to the heating wires.  MW
> >
> >
> > On 9 Jan 2014, at 17:53, tomw wrote:
> >
> > > Kevin,
> > >
> > > If you tape the heaters to bottom side of aluminum sheet like I did, I
> > think
> > > it is a good idea to put two or three layers of a tough tape like
> Kapton
> > > over the place where the leads are riveted.  Over time the weight of
> the
> > > batteries may cause those slightly raised riveted leads to punch
> through
> > the
> > > insulating layers on the heater causing a short between them via the
> > > aluminum.  Nothing catastrophic, the fuse will blow, but a pain to pull
> > the
> > > batteries to replace it.  The somewhat soft insulation underneath the
> > heater
> > > helps prevent it too - heaters pressing down into it.  You might also
> > search
> > > on diyelectriccar on battery heating.  Been a lot posted there over the
> > last
> > > several years.  Some have used the thin film resistive heaters that are
> > used
> > > for radiant floor heating for example.  You can purchase it by the
> foot.
> > > The Farnums are just one option.  Taping to an aluminum pan that fits
> > snugly
> > > in the box helps spread the heat as well as protect the heaters.
> > >
> >
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