The problem with using pipe tape is that you really shouldn't compress
it. If you go for the Farnum board, you are all set for putting under
the batteries. I've also seen some underfloor wire nets that might
work, but they depend on a cement surrounding, so may not work very well
for this situation.
Cheers, Peter
On 1/10/14, 10:23 AM, Michael Ross wrote:
120°F is high for PbSO4 isn't it? I always heard to keep the temp during
charging below 100°F.
There is a JLD temperature controller at around $30 on amazon, or at least
that is what I paid a couple years ago. JLD612 if memory serves. Same
weird passwords and parameter entry, does PID contorl. Seems to last OK
for so cheap. You need a thermocouple. Which you can make from a
thermocouple wire with a solder and a torch. I braze mine with phos
bronze, but it is a little tricky.
I have been thinking about pipe tape for this...with a controller. You
could weave a length of pipe tape among the cells, or fix it to a plate of
aluminum.
On Fri, Jan 10, 2014 at 11:55 AM, Zeke Yewdall <[email protected]> wrote:
How about the heating matts for greenhouses.... they are designed to have
dirty pots of plants put on top of them, and water and all. They seem to
limit to about 120F even when sandwiched between foam insulation, and look
fairly robust... about 15 watts per square foot, so not too much power....
I'm thinking about doing them for the EV bug conversion when I put the
lithium batteries in. It's not a wintertime car anyway -- not having any
defrost or heat either, but I'm thinking of days when it's 50's and sunny
during the day, but still dropping down into the low 20's at night -- when
it would be charging. The BMS will turn the charger off if the battery
temp is too cold, but it would be nice to be possible to charge then.
On Fri, Jan 10, 2014 at 1:18 AM, Martin WINLOW <[email protected]> wrote:
This issue is one of the advantages of using an electric (bed-type)
blanket as the fluffy material the heating wires are sandwiched in - in
combination with a flat tray floor and protective, relatively hard layer
between blanket and cell bottoms - avoids point load problems that might
lead to damage to the heating wires. MW
On 9 Jan 2014, at 17:53, tomw wrote:
Kevin,
If you tape the heaters to bottom side of aluminum sheet like I did, I
think
it is a good idea to put two or three layers of a tough tape like
Kapton
over the place where the leads are riveted. Over time the weight of
the
batteries may cause those slightly raised riveted leads to punch
through
the
insulating layers on the heater causing a short between them via the
aluminum. Nothing catastrophic, the fuse will blow, but a pain to pull
the
batteries to replace it. The somewhat soft insulation underneath the
heater
helps prevent it too - heaters pressing down into it. You might also
search
on diyelectriccar on battery heating. Been a lot posted there over the
last
several years. Some have used the thin film resistive heaters that are
used
for radiant floor heating for example. You can purchase it by the
foot.
The Farnums are just one option. Taping to an aluminum pan that fits
snugly
in the box helps spread the heat as well as protect the heaters.
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