If you what to get quite fancy, modern OEMs use a heat pump run with a small variable frequency drive. About 4x the efficiency of a resistive heater. No joke, and that is a serious increase in range in the winter. No doubt, you can get a Leaf compressor cheap in the bone yard.

By adding the proper valving, you have the bonus of air conditioning, but that is even more of a project. The good thing is, you can reuse the cars existing air conditioning condensor and evaporator and some of the A/C plumbing.

It can get quite complicated, however, and a resistive ceramic type heater core is, no doubt, the simplest option. I'd opt for a "high/low" switch (series-parallel?) on two ceramic heaters, or some sort of thermostat on the outgoing air from the heater(s).

Bill D.

On 11/28/2017 4:33 PM, Bob Bath via EV wrote:
Respectfully, when I did Civicwithacord, the goal was defrosting the windshield 
effectively, not keeping me warm. Yanking out the dash to install the ceramic 
heater in the old fluid core housing was easily the biggest b---h of the 
conversion, but the time and look and safety was well worth it!!

Bob Bath, from his iPod, so any misspellings are from autocorrect or fat 
fingers on a small device, not cluelessness...

On Nov 28, 2017, at 3:13 PM, Bill Dennis via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:

I used a 1500W heater core in my Geo Metro conversion, and I'd say that it
kept the car kinda "warmish" on really cold days.   But I think if I'd taken
the time to put extra insulation in the car, that would have helped.


UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)

Reply via email to