If it's an "Energy Star" fridge then its not likely to be a simple timer. More 
likely it is some kind of algorythm that makes calculations based on how often 
and how long the door is open, possibly even taking into account humidity, etc.

Might also be some kind of frost sensor.
​​​​​​​
I know on my fridge, I will sometimes see it go into defrost twice in a week, 
at other times maybe once a month, or less. Definitely not a timer.

My PGP public key: https://vanderwal.us/evdl_pgp.key 
(https://vanderwal.us/evdl_pgp.key)

March 23, 2021 2:35 PM, "Robert Bruninga" <bruni...@usna.edu 
(mailto:bruni...@usna.edu?to=%22Robert%20Bruninga%22%20<bruni...@usna.edu>)> 
wrote:
 When the refer defrost strip-heater kicks in and my house is on the 1.5 kW 
inverter, it drops the load and we go dark. But then simply cycling power 
restores is because the drop of power resets the "energy-star" design will NOT 
let the defrost come on when power is restored, so you probably get another 
LONG delay before it tries again. I have never understood the strip heater 
timing whether it comes on once a day or 8 hours or a week. And/or what the 
restart cycle is after a power outage.
Butr so far with our power outages lasting no more than a few minutes to maybe 
an hour over the last ten years, I have not had the honor of watching the 
defrost timing. 
bob  
 On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 3:55 PM Peter VanDerWal via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org 
(mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org)> wrote: Well, apparently the Tesla's onboard level-2 
charger is (theoretically) capable of bidirectional capability. So V2G/V2H 
might just require a software upgrade.

Musk has stated that the Cybertrucks will have onboard AC outlets, possibly 
even 240V outlets capable of powering a small house, or perhaps an average 
size, energy efficient house.

Not counting the oven, dryer, or EV charging, my house does not use more than 
~3kw. If I actively manage my loads I can keep it down below 1.5kw. A large 
part of the reason I'm making my house "smarter" is to allow the computer to 
shift loads in order to keep draw below 1.5kw. I.E. don't allow the HP water 
heater and Mini-Splt to run at the same time, etc.
Actually, as long as it's not below freezing out, and the Fridge doesn't go 
into defrost mode; I can run the Fridge, Freezer, HP Water Heater, Mini-Split 
and my home network without going over 1.5 kw.

High priority loads: https://vanderwal.us/GarageHist/Garage.html 
(https://vanderwal.us/GarageHist/Garage.html)
My PGP public key: https://vanderwal.us/evdl_pgp.key 
(https://vanderwal.us/evdl_pgp.key)

March 23, 2021 9:14 AM, "Willie via EV" <ev@lists.evdl.org 
(mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org)> wrote:

> On 3/23/21 11:02 AM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
>
>> On 3/23/21 9:04 AM, Willie via EV wrote:
>>> People have claimed that it would not be possible to get DC power
>>> out of the charge connector on a Tesla. I'm skeptical. Will you
>>> offer an opinion?
>>
>> Since Tesla's support DC fast charging, it means they have the
>> capability to connect the battery directly to the fast charging ports on
>> the charge connector (via contractors I assume). So the capability
>> definitely exists, but you would have to have software support from
>> Tesla or trick them into thinking they are connected to a supercharger
>> (and if the car is programmed to shut off any "SuperChargers" that
>> "steal" power instead of providing it even that wouldn't work.)
>
> Yes, I agree it would likely be non-productive for a Tesla owner to try
> to work at odds with Tesla. If Tesla doesn't want it to happen, it will
> not likely happen. OTOH, I think (and hope) that Tesla will soon be
> offering V2H/V2G in response to the VW challenge.
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