Chris- it sounds like she was a "carrier?"  Have you heard this term used 
before as it relates to Felv?  When Monkee tested positive for the third time, 
my vet said it didn't look good for him to "just be a carrier"- a cat that 
carries it in the bloodstream, but not in the bone marrow where it would 
actually be replicated and circulated throughout the whole body.  Obviously, it 
was in his bone marrow and I didn't need to put him thru a needle aspiration to 
find that out.  I think carriers-only is possible tho w/ Felv and I guess it's 
what we all hope for, especially if a cat is asymptomatic and thus, not 
"viremic"- aka, actively shedding the virus, then yes, it's possible to have 
multiple false negatives- and also possible for the carrier cat to not transmit 
the virus to others, no matter what the contact- b/c the cat is not "shedding" 
the virus.   
I think we all need to keep in mind that Felv is a VIRUS (despite it's 
misleading name- just as FIP has a misleading name).  Viruses in general are 
extremely complex and extremely misunderstood.  They are very complicated.  
Nothing is 100% when it comes to viruses and we need to remember that.  No 
vaccine is 100% against a virus, but on the other hand, exposure is also not 
100% for contraction.  Example, we are all exposed to the human herpes virus so 
much more than any of us of want to think- and some of us probably are carrying 
it some where in our bodies, yet we are asymptomatic- but not every single one 
of us in the world "has" herpes!!!  That is just one easy example, but there 
are many others for sure.  Some of us have better immune systems than others.  
Some people can be faced with an onslaught of viruses and never come down with 
anything.  We are all exposed to viruses everyday (and I do mean viruses, not 
bacteria-- altho that too!), but we aren't all "sick."  Because viruses are 
ancient and they constantly mutate, it's not worth fretting over daily unless 
you are one of the researchers devoting your life to studying them them in a 
We do the best we can, period.  As much as we don't want to admit it, all of 
our cats WILL die...period.  Yes, we want them to have a long, pain free life, 
but that can't always be accomplished so the best we can aim for is to give 
them a sheltered and loving life- long or short.  If you spend all of your time 
worrying and fretting over them, then you are cheating your cat out of quality 
time spent with you.  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: RE: more questions and 
thankyouDate: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 13:06:55 -0500

You are correct in the fact that this is what’s on the Cornell web 
site—unfortunately that site has not been updated in years and does indeed 
contain some very outdated info.  That info was then used by a variety of other 
sites as gospel and therein the dilemma.  I know there are other references, 
more recent, that verify the ‘if it dries—it dies’ construct.  I spent hours 
and hours researching when my Tucson was first diagnosed at age 5 and that 
first hit on the Cornell site gave me countless hours of sleepness nights! And 
you are correct in saying that FELV vaccine is not 100%--no vaccine is.  But 
one thing I did learn in my readings became a critical piece of info when I was 
trying to figure things out.  My Tucson had been tested when I first got her at 
about 8 weeks old & she was neg.  Then all of a sudden, almost 5 years later, 
she tested positive.  She was an indoor only cat from the moment I got her & 
the other 3 cats I had, (2 of whom came in as kittens after I got Tucson) 
consistently tested neg when I had them tested as adults.  Turns out that 
depending on the ‘stage’ of the virus when snap test is administered, the 
results can be a false negative.  Indeed, the ideal protocol for kittens is to 
test at the point of weaning, and if neg, test again no sooner than 6-9 
months—of course, that would eliminate all adoptions!  Anyway, based on my 
personal experience (such as it is) & the exhaustive reading and consulting I 
did, I (and the 2 vets who treated Tucson) were convinced beyond a shadow of a 
doubt that she harbored the virus all along.  And, it is not such a 
transmittable disease because the 3 cats she lived with all those years are 
still neg, still share food/water dishes, litter boxes etc.  The only changes I 
made after Tucson’s diagnosis was to vaccinate the other 3—and yes, I took in  
a stray I’d been feeding for two years who was never sick a day in his life and 
he turned out to be positive…   
Christiane Biagi
Cell:  914-720-6888
Katrina Animal Reunion Team (KART)
Join Us & Help Reunite Katrina-displaced Families with their Animals

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dorothy 
NobleSent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 12:26 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Re: more 
questions and thankyou

You are welcome to describe my information as "inaccurate";  I wrote: 
Apparently the virus CAN live for a while.  I have read in severalplaces that 
you need to clean any area with a bleach/water cleaner if a +cat has been where 
a negative one will be staying.  It is said that youshould wait 30 days after 
your + cat is gone before you shouldintroduce a new negative cat into the 


I would think that the Cornell University (as well as all of the others 
documented below) hold a certain amount of credibility - more so than any 
layman just posting their opinions here.  

Whatever you believe, I would ALWAYS err on the side of caution and keep all of 
the litterboxes, bowls, etc separate.  Without knowing it, I put my negative 
cats at risk; they had all been vaccinated for FeLV but it isn't 100% 
effective.  Due to the extreme contagiousness, one of my vaccinated cats now is 
FeLV positive.  Please note the yellow highlighted part below - by following 
this strictly, my other negative cat remained negative.

Suit yourself, but I prefer to be proactive with my cats.


What can I do now to protect my cats?? The only method for protecting your cats 
is to remove any FELV-positive cat from other cats completely. You should also 
follow strict quarantine procedures including separate utensils, housing, 
litter pans for the FELV positive cat, and thoroughly washing your hands, 
clothing and shoes after handling and caring for the FELV positive cat. Do not 
breed an FELV positive queen!! If you lose a cat to FELV, it is recommended 
that you wait 30 days before bringing in a new cat, and then only after the 
area has been thoroughly scrubbed and disinfected with a solution containing 4 
ounces of household bleach per gallon of water, rugs vacuumed completely, and 
all litter pans, food dishes, bedding, etc. have been replaced. 


FeLV is considerably unstable and will not survive outside an infected cat for 
an extended length of time. It is recommended to wait at least 30 days before a 
new cat is brought into the household/facility in which a FeLV-positive cat 
once lived 
Cleaning:Thoroughly disinfect or replace the food dishes, litter pans, and 
bedding that were used by the infected cat.Tile or hard surfaced floors should 
be cleaned and disinfected with a diluted bleach solution (approx. 4 oz. 
household bleach to 1 gal. water). Thoroughly vacuum rugs to eliminate the 
virus from carpeting. 
These plus the thirty-day quarantine, should be sufficient to eliminate the 
virus within the household. 


Keep a FeLV-infected cat indoors and away from other cats. If the cat dies from 
FeLV, the Cornell Feline Health Center recommends a waiting period of at least 
30 days before getting another cat. The house and cat supplies should be 
thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before bringing a new cat home.

An FeLV-positive cat that is not sick is probably still shedding the virus. 
FeLV-positive cats should not be housed with other cats. Deciding what to do 
with an FeLV-positive cat in a multicat household can be very difficult. There 
are several options, including:

Finding a home for the FeLV-positive cat where it will be the sole cat 
Isolating the FeLV-positive cat within the home, by keeping it in a separate 
room and providing a separate litter tray and feeding bowl 

Because FeLV can be spread through litter trays, water and food bowls, and 
bedding, these should be disinfected with a solution containing 4 ounces of 
household bleach per 1 gallon of water, or they should be replaced after 
isolating the FeLV-positive cat. Floors should be cleaned and disinfected with 
a bleach solution, and rugs should be thoroughly vacuumed.



If you have previously had a cat with FeLV, wait at least 30 days before 
acquiring a new cat. During that time, all litterboxes and food bowls should be 
replaced, and the premises cleaned thoroughly.

Belinda Sauro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

This is why inaccurate information is so harmful, Dorthys info is wrong, it 
dries it dies, talk to any vet who is knowledgable about FeLV if you can find 
one, there aren't many even today it seems.> Now I am worried. I have been 
taking good care of Buzz's dishes and washing my hands after I leave his room. 
If this virus lasts on clothing then I have put my other cats at risk every 
time I pick them up in spite of the precautions.-- Belindahappiness is being 
owned by cats ...Be-Mi-Kitties 
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