First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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Hello, Chris, Wayne and Andy!
Well, I started at the very basics.  I bought a test light, went to the 
internet and typed in "how do I use a test light", went to my car and hooked it 
up to the battery.  When the light didn't burn I was sure I'd bought a 
defective light.  I shook it a few times and hooked it up again.  It still 
didn't burn.  After some more shaking, clamping and testing I thought, "well, 
maybe the battery is bad".  I took it out of the car and delivered it to our 
local Sears auto shop where they told me the battery was bad.  (I guess it goes 
to show you it doesn't matter whether or not you've charged the battery.  A bad 
battery is a bad battery.)  I haven't installed the new one yet.  It's nearly 
10pm here, and my '68 sounds great when it's running.  The neighbors may not 
appreciate it as much as I do.
I'm pretty sure the car will run after I install the new battery.  My next 
question:  why does it keep going through batteries?  This is the third one 
I've gotten for it since May 05.  Sears is going to stop honoring my warranty.  
I think I may still get the chance to use all the great teaching you sent my 
way over the past few days.  Thanks again!
(redfaced)
David



----- Original Message ----
From: Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: First Generation Firebird-L <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 12:00:23 PM
Subject: Re: [FGF] 68 won't start

First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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Hi David,

If you only have a continuity tester, you will have to modify Chris' 
instructions or buy a test light or voltmeter (I recommend a voltmeter). 
A continuity tester is used to check a segment of a circuit (usually a 
wire) to detect any opens. You can use it to troubleshoot this problem, 
but it won't be as easy as checking for voltage.

Do any other circuits in the car work, like the clock or horn? If you 
can find no working circuits at all, there are a few quick and 
fundamental things to check. First, you want the battery posts and cable 
terminals to be free of corrosion. Next, check that there is a smaller 
gauge wire running from the ground terminal at the battery to the 
passenger-side fender. You can remove the wire at the fender and test it 
for end-to-end continuity. If it's good, reattach it and make sure the 
connection is snug.

Next, check for a similar wire running from the positive terminal at the 
battery to a small terminal block mounted on the radiator core support 
just under the passenger-side fender. In this case you want to be 
careful to avoid accidentally shorting things out, so first remove the 
cable from the positive battery terminal, then remove the wire from the 
terminal block and check it for end-to-end continuity. If it's good, 
reconnect the wire first to the terminal block, then to the battery 
terminal.

Let us know the results of your tests. If all of those things check out, 
you will better off investing in an inexpensive voltmeter to continue 
troubleshooting.

Andy

David Lasseter wrote:

>First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
>.........................................................................
>Hello, Andy,
><snip>
>
>I have a continuity tester and am getting started troubleshooting the system 
>as Chris instructed me.  When you say measure the voltage across the cable 
>clamps and not just the posts, would I clip the tester to one cable and check 
>the other, or would I clip the tester to the frame or engine block?  Thanks 
>for your help.  Obviously this is something new for me and I'm learning how to 
>work this problem.
>
>David
>  
>

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