First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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lamps.... it's good when you're low on resources, but I predict that
once you have solved one problem you'll want to try your skills on more
'issues'. Just try to get familiar with the multimeter, you'll love the
thing later on. I have something similar to this item on Ebay: Do a
search on nr. 250278147792 About 50,- and I'm quite satisfied with it
concerning 'value for money'. You can also measuere RPM and Dwell angle,
very handy when you get into tuning the engine.
PS. You can short circuit stuff indeed with ammeter / voltmeter. When
the meter is in 'Ampere-mode' it's resistance is very-very-near-zero
(read: approximately the same as a solid copper wire) and in
'Voltage-mode' it's resistance is very-very-near-infinate (read: as
condictive as e.g. a block of wood). Maybe it goes too far to elaborate
on this in the list why this works this way, but pages like these
http://www.seattlerobotics.org/guide/electronics.html might help (or
google on 'basic electronics' or something) Anyway; Imagine what happens
if you connect a piece of wood or a copper wire between the + and - of
the battery.... So always make sure the thing is in the right modus.
.
Gerrit
http://www.rgp.nl/bird
Pete D wrote:
Whatever you do, DO NOT remove any cables while the engine is running - this may cause more damage! This is an old trick left-ever from the days of the external regulator. The solid state internal regulators found in alternators today cannot handle the spike created when the cable is disconnected. And the alternator requires an external 12v source to create the field in the stator.
To find a short hook-up an ammeter as described earlier and while monitoring the reading
pull one fuse at a time from the fuse block. When the current drops to 0 you've found the
suspect circuit. Make sure you don't have any "always on" [radio clock etc]
circuits energized while performing this test.
HTH
PeteJD
[69 400]
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