First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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Hello Sheen,

It's probably cheaper to get the pieces instead of  a kit. I bought a tolerable 
dial indicator and magnetic mount for maybe 10 bucks at Harbor Freight. Once 
you have that all you need are a degree wheel, a solid lifter, a pushrod and a 
piston stop to help locate TDC. You can easily fabricate the piston stop from a 
piece of flat bar or angle iron. Just drill two holes that line up with head 
bolt holes in the block. Over the center of the piston, drill and tap a hole 
for a small stop bolt - 1/4 -20 is plenty. Insert the stop bolt and use a jam 
nut so the bolt can't move. Use caution when the piston is near the stop. I 
installed only the number 1 piston, and put it in without rings for the purpose 
of degreeing so that the crank had minimal drag (gives finer control as you 
turn it). Use a piece of stiff wire like a coat hanger or a piece of mig 
welding wire to make a pointer in front of the degree wheel. Just find a bolt 
hole or two to secure the wire so it
 can't move around. This will make a very adequate pointer.

Jim Hand has an excellent description of the cam degreeing process at page 32 
of "How to Build Max-Performance Pontiac V-8s". 

Degreeing the cam is not difficult - "just do it"! I found my Crane Blueprint 
"068" cam to be one degree retarded, which I was able to easily correct with an 
offset key. Remember that one cam degree will equal two crankshaft degrees 
because the crank rotates twice for each cam revolution.

David



----- Original Message ----
From: S Sterchi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


I've never degreed a cam on my previous builds but thinking about doing it this 
time around. Any suggestions on a decent kit? Anyone have the Comp Cam one?

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+%2D110310&D=%2D110310

Thanks,
Sheen


      
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