First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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I realize now I should have done this before putting all my pistons in. 
Actually, I think it might be near impossible to get good readings without 
bunging up the top of the piston in the process. A rubber stopper over the bolt 
would probably kill the accuracy, right?
 
Sheen> Hello Sheen,> > It's probably cheaper to get the pieces instead of a 
kit. I bought a tolerable dial indicator and magnetic mount for maybe 10 bucks 
at Harbor Freight. Once you have that all you need are a degree wheel, a solid 
lifter, a pushrod and a piston stop to help locate TDC. You can easily 
fabricate the piston stop from a piece of flat bar or angle iron. Just drill 
two holes that line up with head bolt holes in the block. Over the center of 
the piston, drill and tap a hole for a small stop bolt - 1/4 -20 is plenty. 
Insert the stop bolt and use a jam nut so the bolt can't move. Use caution when 
the piston is near the stop. I installed only the number 1 piston, and put it 
in without rings for the purpose of degreeing so that the crank had minimal 
drag (gives finer control as you turn it). Use a piece of stiff wire like a 
coat hanger or a piece of mig welding wire to make a pointer in front of the 
degree wheel. Just find a bolt hole or two to secure the wire so it>
  can't move around. This will make a very adequate pointer.> > Jim Hand has an 
excellent description of the cam degreeing process at page 32 of "How to Build 
Max-Performance Pontiac V-8s". > > Degreeing the cam is not difficult - "just 
do it"! I found my Crane Blueprint "068" cam to be one degree retarded, which I 
was able to easily correct with an offset key. Remember that one cam degree 
will equal two crankshaft degrees because the crank rotates twice for each cam 
revolution.> > David
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