First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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I got my degree wheel today. I used the digital dial indicator for locating 
both  lobe center (.050" down method in Jim Hand's book) and TDC (same 
technique except I used .600" down for greater accuracy). It worked out well. 
Did it twice and got 106* both times, which is the cam spec.  Using the 
flywheel's ring gear and engine stand arms to steady the screw driver worked 
perfect.
 
Next step is to look into plating my windage tray. I had to bead blast it to 
get all the rust off and I'm afraid to put it back in bare without any 
corrosion protection. 
 
Thanks for all the advice on this.
Sheen
> .........................................................................> 
> With a manual setup, the flywheel has teeth for the starter to engage.   On 
> an automatic setup a flex plate/ring gear assembly is used to connect the 
> torque converter to the crankshaft.  Either way, you can use the teeth  to 
> rotate the crank.  If you have the flywheel or a ring gear/flex plate 
> installed, you can use a large screwdriver between the engine stand and the 
> teeth to rotate the crank.  They also sell a special tool for this purpose 
> that hooks onto the teeth.  If you're able to rotate the engine accurately 
> from the vibration damper end, do it that way.  Otherwise, install your 
> flywheel and take advantage of the leverage and grip the teeth provide.  I 
> think you will find that using the teeth will afford you greater precision 
> and control than working from the damper end.> > I think you made finding TDC 
> more difficult by getting the digital indicator.  It is way faster for the 
> brain to respond 
 to an analog pointer.  I would recommend you exchange it for the dial type if 
you can.  > > Larry
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