--- You wrote:
 Remember you'll want to match the DPI 
to what you print at, most inkjets and digital labs will use a 300DPI 
file. Anything more is wasted. When you re-size, you can set your image 
size to 4x6", but in the same action, set your DPI to 300 (for print) or 
75 for screen. 
--- end of quote ---
This is an interesting thought.  

When I was active on the film scanners list (never a fussier bunch of decent
folks,)   I raised the question of what print resolution was the miniumum for an
Epson printer (working at 1400 dpi in those days.)   In other words, what
resolution do you send to the printer below which you will notice deterioration
in print quality.  Most of those folks say 125 dpi.  I use 150 to be safe.  I
did some experiments that seemed to confirm this.

I always save a working file at full resolution (currently 4 mps) and a "print
file of 8.5 x11 inches at 150 dpi which includes sizeable white boarders around
the image for display porposes. Occasionally I do additional work in the "print"
file and I think of 150 dpi as giving me some headroom in case I want to resize
once more.  I've never seen deterioration in an image resized several times over
in Photoshop.  It does a really good job.  Of course if you make it small and
want to make it bigger again, your final resolution will be no better thatn the
smallest it ever was.

I produce my print file by asking for a 'New" document 8.5 x 11, 150 dpi, rgb,
white background.   I drag the master image to the new page and resize using
free transform (apple-T)  while holding the shift key to constrain proportions.   
I crop in the master using the select rectange and that is what draggs to the
new page.  This is a very quick way to resize and get the print resolution I
need.

Curves in Photoshop can do magic if used carefully, even in color work.   Levels
are magic too: using that middle eyedropper for color correction is an amazing
shortcut.

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