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Hartmut, I tentatively disagree that it doesn't matter too much about positioning of the baffles. Though I'm not an expert on engine baffling, I've had baffling faults pointed out to me along with discussions about how the ONLY air path between the high pressure and low pressure areas should be the ones intended. I'd say the baffling on the Coupe is pretty important to good cooling. John, I think you need to make sure there's some sort of sealing all the way around the baffles so ALL the cooling air goes down the gaps through the cylinder heads. Failure to have rubber or felt seals all the way around the outside of the baffle (against the cowl) would let the majority of your cooling air get away without cooling the cylinder head cooling fins. Ed Burkhead http://edburkhead.home.insightbb.com/ [EMAIL PROTECTED] -----Original Message----- From: Hartmut [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 6:08 PM To: Jack Lewis Cc: John; [email protected] Subject: Re: [COUPERS-FLYIN] Responses to overheating problem ----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any advice in this forum.]---- Jack is right . Fix the baffles. You don't need the strips on a C-75, but the baffles should be in the right position. I doubt that the bent baffle would make so much effect that the temp goes up to 250. The opening of the side cowl is creating a big amount of low pressure that it almost does not matter how effective the baffling is. Air will stream. The only difference is how much air will be used directly for cooling. I think the temperature difference could only be some 10 to 20 degrees, but not 70 degrees. Hartmut Jack Lewis wrote: > ----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any advice in this forum.]---- > > >Are the baffles that sensitive? > > Yes they are. Not only do they maintain high pressure air above the > cyclinders, they also create a low pressure zone below the cyclinders. > > The whole system is just like your coupe gas tanks. The fuel will flow into > the one with less gas. When they are even, the fuel quits flowing. That is > probably what is happening to your engine. > > Air goes to the path of lest resistance. If resistance is equal the flow > stops. > > Gaps in the system allows air to go over the top of the baffles, before it > goes over the cylinder head. If it goes over top of the baffles the bottom > of the cowl becomes pressurized. When the bottom pressure goes up, it takes > more force to push the air over the cylinder heads. (You should always have > Positive pressure on top, Negative on bottom. This results in the air going > over the cylinders being forced from the top and pulled down from the > bottom). > > There should be NO air entering the top of the engine that doesn't cool the > cylinders. > > There should be NO air entering the bottom of the cowl unless it has cooled > something getting there. > In addition to fixing the baffles (it won't hurt even if it doesn't solve > the problem), make sure that the seal around the air filter is also good and > the cowl fits snug in the front when closed. > > You don't have a lot of air to play with: > There are two inlets for the air above the cylinders. > One inlet for air below the cylinders (to cool the oil slump). > The inlet for the slump cooling will about cancel one of the cylinder > inlets. > The air above the cylinder is also used for Carb Heat, Cabin Heat and > Gen cooling. > So you really don't have a lot of air to waste. > > Fix the baffles and tell us what happened. > > Jack > > ================================================================== > TO UNSUBSCRIBE go to: http://ercoupers.com/lists.htm ================================================================== TO UNSUBSCRIBE go to: http://ercoupers.com/lists.htm ================================================================== TO UNSUBSCRIBE go to: http://ercoupers.com/lists.htm
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