Niether did I. Have about 10,000 km now and it's still on.
Grant Gall
"Crisler, Jon" wrote:
> Nice write up. One thing, I did not put any Loctite on my rear sprocket
> when I replaced it. The manual did not call for it... Do you think I
> should go back and do that ?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Hawkins [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 7:53 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Chain Conversion
>
> The DID Gold X-ring is just fine. It's an excellent chain that will provide
> years of service. The best way to remove the old chain is to simply cut it
> off! With a Dremel tool equipped with cutting wheel, it doesn't take more
> than ten minutes. Replacement of the rear sprocket is straight forward,
> just remember to use a dab of Locktite on each bolt to secure it. Here is
> the procedure for replacing the front sprocket that I retrieved from
> archives:
>
> Remove the left side lower cowel and find the clutch slave cylinder (you'll
> see the hydraulic line running to it). Remove the 3 bolts holding it on,
> remembering that the long one goes in the top. Remove the bolt holding the
> shifter to the shift shaft and slide the shifter off. Now remove the bolts
> that hold the magnesium cover over the countershaft sprocket. Using a
> hammer and a screwdriver (I know you're not suppose to do this to a
> screwdriver) pry back the lock washer from the nut. This is a 32mm nut so
> you might need to run down to Sears or flag down a SnapOn truck to retreive
> a socket. You WILL NOT need a lot of pressure to remove the old sprocket as
> these don't seem to be properly torqued down from the factory. Slide off
> old sprocket and replace with the new one. Slide on locking tab washer and
> 32mm nut. Put the bike in neutral and slide a broom stick through the rear
> wheel just below the swingarm. Now rotate the wheel so the broomstick snugs
> up against the swingarm. (There's really no need to stand on the rear
> brake!). NOW TORQUE DOWN THAT NUT to 50 ft/lb or 70 NM!!! Using the
> screwdriver and hammer bend the locking washer back over the nut on TWO
> sides for greater insurance. I know you're not suppose to reuse the lock
> washer but YES, the old one works fine, no problem. Reassemble and your
> good to go!
>
> Replacement of the chain with a clip type master link is just fine if it's
> installed properly. Make sure the "Closed" end of the clip faces towards
> the rear of the bike when it's on the lower rung of travel and place a
> small dab of bright colored RTV (Permatex) on the clip. This helps you to
> find it for quick inspections before rides and also provides a little more
> resistance to slippage.
>
> Any questions?
>
> Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.geocities.com/raddboy
> Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000
>
> Well with the electrical problem out of the way, its on to the 532-530
> chain/sprocket replacement this weekend. I'm going with a DID xring chain,
> having bought into their ad claims. Anyone like/dislike this chain?
> It looks straight forward enough in the manual. Any gotcha's I should know
> about? i.e. impossible to get to bolts etc.
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
> '94 GTS
> _________________________________________________________________
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