Sorry, mine did not have it, and I dont think the manual calls for it.
Perhaps they forgot it at the factory. The nuts WERE quite tight, and I
thought I was going to break them off, but once loose they came off easy.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Hawkins [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 12:38 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Chain Conversion
When you removed the nuts originally, didn't you notice the white chalky
residue that flaked off the bolt and the resistance that was offered till
the last thread? That, in police terms, is known as a clue! :^)
Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.geocities.com/raddboy
Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000
Niether did I. Have about 10,000 km now and it's still on.
Grant Gall
"Crisler, Jon" wrote:
> Nice write up. One thing, I did not put any Loctite on my rear sprocket
> when I replaced it. The manual did not call for it... Do you think I
> should go back and do that ?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Hawkins [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 7:53 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Chain Conversion
>
> The DID Gold X-ring is just fine. It's an excellent chain that will
provide
> years of service. The best way to remove the old chain is to simply cut
it
> off! With a Dremel tool equipped with cutting wheel, it doesn't take more
> than ten minutes. Replacement of the rear sprocket is straight forward,
> just remember to use a dab of Locktite on each bolt to secure it. Here is
> the procedure for replacing the front sprocket that I retrieved from
> archives:
>
> Remove the left side lower cowel and find the clutch slave cylinder
(you'll
> see the hydraulic line running to it). Remove the 3 bolts holding it on,
> remembering that the long one goes in the top. Remove the bolt holding
the
> shifter to the shift shaft and slide the shifter off. Now remove the
bolts
> that hold the magnesium cover over the countershaft sprocket. Using a
> hammer and a screwdriver (I know you're not suppose to do this to a
> screwdriver) pry back the lock washer from the nut. This is a 32mm nut so
> you might need to run down to Sears or flag down a SnapOn truck to
retreive
> a socket. You WILL NOT need a lot of pressure to remove the old sprocket
as
> these don't seem to be properly torqued down from the factory. Slide off
> old sprocket and replace with the new one. Slide on locking tab washer
and
> 32mm nut. Put the bike in neutral and slide a broom stick through the
rear
> wheel just below the swingarm. Now rotate the wheel so the broomstick
snugs
> up against the swingarm. (There's really no need to stand on the rear
> brake!). NOW TORQUE DOWN THAT NUT to 50 ft/lb or 70 NM!!! Using the
> screwdriver and hammer bend the locking washer back over the nut on TWO
> sides for greater insurance. I know you're not suppose to reuse the lock
> washer but YES, the old one works fine, no problem. Reassemble and your
> good to go!
>
> Replacement of the chain with a clip type master link is just fine if
it's
> installed properly. Make sure the "Closed" end of the clip faces towards
> the rear of the bike when it's on the lower rung of travel and place a
> small dab of bright colored RTV (Permatex) on the clip. This helps you to
> find it for quick inspections before rides and also provides a little
more
> resistance to slippage.
>
> Any questions?
>
> Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.geocities.com/raddboy
> Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000
>
> Well with the electrical problem out of the way, its on to the 532-530
> chain/sprocket replacement this weekend. I'm going with a DID xring
chain,
> having bought into their ad claims. Anyone like/dislike this chain?
> It looks straight forward enough in the manual. Any gotcha's I should
know
> about? i.e. impossible to get to bolts etc.
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
> '94 GTS
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
