I've seen various reproductions of this portrait and Elizabeth's dress is more crimson(red) than pink.
Try Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett for modern scale patterns for this ensemble. The probable faux undersleeves and upper sleeve lining and underskirt or more likely, forepart, appear to be a gold on gold brocade or cut velvet. The bell, trumpet, or Anne Boleyn style oversleeves, began the 16th century as simple long oversleeves and eventually oversleeve and undersleeve/faux undersleeve components got more elaborate. The bodice is probably the long V waist, with the gold, pearled and jewelled girdle, covering the join(or hook and eye fastening) of bodice to skirt. To accurately make this costume is a lot of work. I did a similar version with the changes needed to bring it up to the 1570's several years ago and it is a lot of work, even for the 24" porcelain doll I made to create it for. First make the shift. You have to make an exact squared neck that a bit of it will appear or not, depending on the portrait you are copying. I made mine of fine cotton as a linen to the scale of the doll couldn't be bought to the limited quantity I needed for a fine linen. The shift was about knee length. Not sure of the white undersleeve construction and I was doing an 1570's, not super wide below the elbow 1540-1560 version, I did the shift sleeves cut wider at the top than a "normal" shift sleeve and much wider at the bottom, gathering each bottom into a cuff with drawstrings, not elastic. Next was the stays(or corset). My doll was cloth-bodied and firmly stuffed, but I made it complete with stiffining thin doll-scale synthetic horsehair in channels, and handmade sewn eyelets for back lacing and shoulder strap closure. Well worth the work, as seven years later, the stuffing in this area has not dropped or settled. Stays helped the body fight aging and gravity. Somewhat easier to make for the doll was the hip pad and farthingale. I used a linen for both and using Hunnisett's pattern, cheated by sewing double folded bias binding along the marked lines all around in six graduated layers(think of a 19th hoopskirt) to make channels. I used more doll scale narrow horsehair inseted in the channels. I made undersleeves of a pink brocade and a matching forepart. Instead of authentically pinning each in place, I sewed the undersleeves to narrow silk ribbons that were tacked in place on the shift sleeves. I had to engineer this after I did the sleeves on the main gown. Fussy work and probably not authentic, but it was a competition doll and pining all into place would have looked as if I didn't have time to sew it. The forepart I hem stitched to the farthingale--it was just a little larger than the main gown's overskirt opening and had to be cut to its final measurement and installed after I had finished the main gown. Main gown of bodice, oversleeves, shoulder wings, and overskirt was lined and sewn together as one piece, again for competition. Back fastened with hand-sewn eyelets. A partlet, figure-8 ruff and French hood finished the look, along with handmade shoes and feather fan. Purchased stockings were faux fastened with cross-gartered silk ribbons. Hope this helps. Cindy Abel -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Becky Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 3:25 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth My daughter has chosen the portrait of young Princess Elizabeth for her costume. It is the pink one, Flemish School 1546-1547. Can anyone tell me what colors the sleeves and the front panel are? They seem very pink to me. http://www.sapphireandsage.com/necklaces.html I can't tell if it has a round or pointed bodices. What do you call these kind of sleeves. Any suggestions of how to make of pattern for the sleeves? I found several sites that had sleeve variations but none like these. _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
