Subject: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for my QEI 14" doll. At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat be set to give a cape effect. On closer examenation, I see that this is actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and Hunnisett. I have worked out the shape and cut but am having problems with the set. In order for the unity of the skirt , bodice and sleeve that bear the ornamentation, I can only achieve the look by inserting the hanging sleeve outside in. This means that the lining will actually be the outside fabric.
Kathleen, Yes, I have done something very much like the Ditchely dress, with a whole lot less beading. The specific gown I was copying was the Eleanor Powis portrait at Powis castle. I believe what you are seeing in the Ditchley portrait is two garments. One is a dress (bodice & skirt) in the French style. Over it, is an open robe or loose gown. See the Isham or Verney open gowns for styling, cut & construction. If you get out the National Portrait Gallery catalog (or peruse the web for a big color version) you'll see that the "background" visible between Elizabeth's underarm, bodice & sleeve are white like the gown & sleeves, not blue-gray like the left-half sky or black like the right-half sky.
Another small query, what is the visible red one can see throught the space beneath the left arm? This was originally why I thought I was seeing this "Cape".
My guess, and I'm no expert, the "red" with all the pleating is the back of the skirt seen in shadow, while the white/gray triangle above the red is the interior of an open robe. When I drape my open robe over the drum I get a bit of squnch back there that looks like pooling water instead of rayed pleats. Admittedly, I'm looking at a 6x9" color photo, not the real portrait. Some contemporary portraits with the open robe: Eleanor Herbert Lady Powis - unknown artist - Castle Powis Pregnant lady in White - Marcus Gheerarts c1595 Sarah Blount, Countess Leicester Unknown Lady - W Segar 1595 Some contemporary garments -- open robe: V&A museum Isham gown The Verney gown (JArnold PoF) I also think that there are drum farthingale-style gowns with the double sleeve; dont get me wrong. The main dancing lady in the Bal for the Duc de Joyeuse is wearing just such a gown. See also Elizabeth I by John Bettes.
Has anyone else attempted this dress "for real"? I have turned the backside of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the shoulder look like the painting...and will tack them downover the silk lining, but the lining is still exposed in all its plainess. I have been unable to find any explanation of how this was done.
When I did my "tawney sarceonet" gown for a drum farthingale I chose to make my sleeves removeable & interchangeable. Then I made the open robe separately. The sleeves on the robe are also removeable. I can wear two sleeves laced together into one armseye. (There's lacings & eyelets in a band that goes halfway 'round the armseye (e.g. from the pectoral, over the shoulder to the shoulder blade). My hanging sleeves are shorter like Pfaltzgrafin Dorothea so I can sit at dinner & not have boorish men stepping on my sleeve. This seems like a ridiculous amount of work for so tiny a doll, but for me, and I'm a little taller, it worked pretty well and I can wear the robe, several gowns and lots of sleeves, foreparts & stomachers in a variety of ways. Think of it as an Elizabethan cruisewear emsemble. <grin> To get the Ditchley look, I would unlace & remove the sleeves from the open robe. I'd lace the "Phoenix" style sleeve and hanging sleeve pairs onto the bodice. Put on the drum, forepart, skirt & bodice. Pin up skirt ruffles. Toss open robe over the top & pull sleeves gentle thru the armseyes of the robe. Sweep the body of the coat backwards over the skirt. Mine is overly heavy. I'd skip the lining or use a lighter weight silk satin next time. Heh, like I'll redo it. There's so many more gowns to make. My interpretation can be found here: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hysteria95126/my_photos You should be able to find the two garments shown separately. The album is: Costume Brag Book This is the detailed link as Yahoo sends it out. http://new.photos.yahoo.com/album?c=hysteria95126&aid=576460762366662489&pid=&wtok=TbrHsiVpa7SfF7Kkcus0iw--&ts=1165960865&.src=ph Look for the Ivory robe & giant square supportasse. Your doll sounds like it will be a work of art. Cant wait to see photos! --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
