At 11:15 02/04/2008, you wrote:
> >  What I am trying to get down is how to do knife pleating. I have read
> >  many different instructions on how to make the pleats, but how can one
> >  acheive a sharp pleat that holds through the whole length to the bottom
> >  edge? The material I am using is like a lightly woven, delicately
> >  stiffened, cotton linen with mild sheen to it and can imagine it would
> >  crease well but how can I get it to hold the shape? I have heard of
> >  permanent press, is there a chemical used professionally to create
> >  permanent creases?
>
>I've made several fully kilted or pleated skirts and there are a few
>tips I'd recommend.
>
>Make a yoke to hang the pleats from. It's how it was done at the time
>and makes it easier and hang better.
>http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/bella.htm
>http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/absinthe.htm
>http://costumes.glittersweet.com/phantom/wishing.htm
>
>These are my three Victorian pleated skirts. The first two are
>stitched down at regular intervals down the length of the skirt.
>That's how they keep their shape. I pleated as much fabric as I was
>able and then treated that as a single pice of fabric that I cat to
>shape at the waist and that is how the skirts are rather full.
>The third is box pleated and the pleats need to be pressed anew each
>time I wear it. But the pleats need to be left open.
>
>Permanent pressers generally only deal with polyester (maybe a few
>other man made fibres) as it can be permanently pressed with heat.
>Cotton and linen will eventually lose the crisp edge.


It may be worth looking for somewhere that does permanent pleating 
professionally. I use a firm to pleat my fabrics if I want the pleats 
to be permanent - they do it by machine and weight I believe. My firm 
will pleat anything, including silk organza, silk and cotton. They 
all keep their pleats.

If I am hand pleating, I press in the pleats, down the entire length, 
baste each one, and steam iron again. (A long and boring, but 
satisfying process!)

Suzi

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