I'm not sure of the gown you will be trying to interpret; most dresses I 
have seen first hand have the pleating around the underskirt; usually 8/12 
".  There is a pleater board that Clotilda carries that does the pleating so 
quicklyfor this width. .It is a square with "pockets" that you stuff and 
press.  The first time I used it i said "yeah shure" and was surprised to 
have four yards pleated whith in an hour...a job that usually meant a whole 
day involvement.  just remember that the fabric being pleated is hemmed in 
advance!! I used spraystarch for a crisp finish and this held up pretty much 
through the drycleaning.

I vaguely remember seeing the device produced for 30"?

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 12:07 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Knife pleating:


> Hello, I bought material to make my first bustle dress, I am going to
> try and emulate a gown I have in a La Mode Parisiennes fashion plate
> from 1880 with consideration of Edna Pontellier's white cotton ensemble
> at the beginning of Grand Isle.
> What I am trying to get down is how to do knife pleating. I have read
> many different instructions on how to make the pleats, but how can one
> acheive a sharp pleat that holds through the whole length to the bottom
> edge? The material I am using is like a lightly woven, delicately
> stiffened, cotton linen with mild sheen to it and can imagine it would
> crease well but how can I get it to hold the shape? I have heard of
> permanent press, is there a chemical used professionally to create
> permanent creases?
>
> Justine.
>
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