>  What I am trying to get down is how to do knife pleating. I have read
>  many different instructions on how to make the pleats, but how can one
>  acheive a sharp pleat that holds through the whole length to the bottom
>  edge? The material I am using is like a lightly woven, delicately
>  stiffened, cotton linen with mild sheen to it and can imagine it would
>  crease well but how can I get it to hold the shape? I have heard of
>  permanent press, is there a chemical used professionally to create
>  permanent creases?

I've made several fully kilted or pleated skirts and there are a few
tips I'd recommend.

Make a yoke to hang the pleats from. It's how it was done at the time
and makes it easier and hang better.
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/bella.htm
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/absinthe.htm
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/phantom/wishing.htm

These are my three Victorian pleated skirts. The first two are
stitched down at regular intervals down the length of the skirt.
That's how they keep their shape. I pleated as much fabric as I was
able and then treated that as a single pice of fabric that I cat to
shape at the waist and that is how the skirts are rather full.
The third is box pleated and the pleats need to be pressed anew each
time I wear it. But the pleats need to be left open.

Permanent pressers generally only deal with polyester (maybe a few
other man made fibres) as it can be permanently pressed with heat.
Cotton and linen will eventually lose the crisp edge.

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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