Great idea! If anybody builds to a spec that comes out of this process, please, please take pictures!
V> -- *Vinay Gupta * * [email protected] <[email protected]> * *http://re.silience.com* <http://re.silience.com> *Free Science and Engineering in the Global Public Interest* UK Cell : +44 (0)7500 895568 Twitter/Skype/Gtalk: hexayurt "In the midst of winter, I finally learned that there was in me an invincible summer" - Albert Camus On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 10:28 PM, Robert Atkins <[email protected]>wrote: > What is “best practice” for building a Hexayurt for Burning Man 2014? > > > I’m thinking a set of opinionated, field-tried-and-tested directives in > the style of the cave divers’ “DIR” (Doing It Right — > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doing_It_Right). While the consequences of > Doing It Wrong are astronomically less severe for Burner Hexaurt dwellers > than cave divers, I would think that excepting a couple of budget-dependent > options, at every decision point there is a clear right and wrong way. > > > As a straw-man, I’m going to throw up a starting point and would like > people to come at me with either affirmations of correctness or > experience-supported explanations of a Better Way. > > > > Materials: > > > * 1.5” Thermax HD. The thicker facing offers infinitely better durability > and the thicker panels don’t hurt your ability to sleep in a cool > environment later into the day. It is however expensive, so 1” R-Max/Tuff-R > or similar (at less than half the price) is acceptable. > > > * 6” 3M bi-directional filament tape (3M part number 8959). Accept no > substitutes. > > > * 3” Foil tape (or 6”, is that relatively easily available? What 3M part > number? Off-brand adhesive products are all shit in my experience) for > covering permanent tape hinges and joins, so they do not degrade under > exposure to UV. Also for reinforcing the thin foil facings on non-Thermax > HD panels. > > > * 3” Velcro (tm—does anyone have an opinion on off-brand hook-and-loop > closures?) for the two detachable joins at the walls, the join between the > two roof halves and the tension ring. Canvas panels to sew the loop-side > onto to make the join strips. > > > * Sturdy (materials? Spectra good here, or do you want something with a > little give?) rope halo joined with a double fisherman’s bend ( > http://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/double-fishermans/). (There should be > a standard length of rope you need for a H12 too—enough to be long enough > to hang down far enough to reach, not so long the tension points dip below > the roofline) > > > * 6 ratchet straps to tie down the rope halo > > > * 6 Playa Staples to tie the ratchet straps into the ground ( > http://www.ironmonkeyarts.org/playa-staples.html). “Regular” (10”) size > is fine. > > > * x' by y' tarp (Vinay, what’s that fancy nano material tarp you were > talking about a few months ago?) > > > * Thin (how thin?) 4’ x 8’ ply for the outer protective sandwich to > protect the packed yurt. > > > > Construction: > > > * Beveled edge cuts. (I have an idea about a 3d-printable tool that will > accept a standard snap-off blade and make perfect bevelled edges. I will > post again when I get to prototyping.) > > > * “Camp Danger Hinges” (you don’t need “loose hinges” if you bevel your > edges, do you?) > > > * Velcro strips for the over-the-roof, wall section and tension-band > joins. 3” hook-side strips of velcro stuck directly to the appropriate > places of the roof and wall joins with its own adhesive (surely if you > clean the surface properly a 3” wide strip is never coming off?) with the > loop-sides stitched onto hemmed canvas strips. Important: one, single, > unbroken strip of canvas as the tension band going all around the top of > the wall/roof-cone join, sticking to itself with a patch of “hook” sewn > onto the back of itself at one end (does that make sense?) > > > * Foil tape over all permanent tape hinges and joins, to prevent > degradation of the bi-filament tape. On anything other than Thermax HD or > other thick-facing boards, a couple of runs of foil tape 6” up from the > bottom of the wall panels, onto which you stick the tarp with gaffer or > bifi (so it doesn’t take the board facing with it when you rip the > tape/tarp off) > > > * Door: outward-swinging, bevelled edges, curved top corners, top edge > 4-6” from top of wall panel, rare-earth magnet closure embedded into the > jamb, flattened tape (or string?) handle inside (so there’s nothing that > can’t fold flat) > > > Is any of the above screamingly controversial? > > > Cheers, Robert. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. 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