Two things:
1. When I think of Spectra, I think of fishing and kiting line. In other
words, it's thin and very strong. Personally, I'd be worried about it
gouging the panel edges.
2. 6" foil tape has two tasks:
1. Cover the board edges to keep the polyiso crumbs from MOOPing. 2.5"
tape will do. 3"+ gives you a wider margin of error. 6" foil
tape would be
overkill here.
2. Optionally protect the 6" bidi tape glue from frying in sun.
You'll only need foil tape wide enough to cover one half of the
bidi tape,
not all of it.
Personally, I've used all sorts of cheap foil tape. It's actually a benefit
to get the cheap stuff. The cheaper it is, the easier it'll peel off later
(you know, for cleaning). Also, generic tape won't have ugly logos.
Joshua
On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 2:28 PM, Robert Atkins <[email protected]>wrote:
> What is “best practice” for building a Hexayurt for Burning Man 2014?
>
>
> I’m thinking a set of opinionated, field-tried-and-tested directives in
> the style of the cave divers’ “DIR” (Doing It Right —
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doing_It_Right). While the consequences of
> Doing It Wrong are astronomically less severe for Burner Hexaurt dwellers
> than cave divers, I would think that excepting a couple of budget-dependent
> options, at every decision point there is a clear right and wrong way.
>
>
> As a straw-man, I’m going to throw up a starting point and would like
> people to come at me with either affirmations of correctness or
> experience-supported explanations of a Better Way.
>
>
>
> Materials:
>
>
> * 1.5” Thermax HD. The thicker facing offers infinitely better durability
> and the thicker panels don’t hurt your ability to sleep in a cool
> environment later into the day. It is however expensive, so 1” R-Max/Tuff-R
> or similar (at less than half the price) is acceptable.
>
>
> * 6” 3M bi-directional filament tape (3M part number 8959). Accept no
> substitutes.
>
>
> * 3” Foil tape (or 6”, is that relatively easily available? What 3M part
> number? Off-brand adhesive products are all shit in my experience) for
> covering permanent tape hinges and joins, so they do not degrade under
> exposure to UV. Also for reinforcing the thin foil facings on non-Thermax
> HD panels.
>
>
> * 3” Velcro (tm—does anyone have an opinion on off-brand hook-and-loop
> closures?) for the two detachable joins at the walls, the join between the
> two roof halves and the tension ring. Canvas panels to sew the loop-side
> onto to make the join strips.
>
>
> * Sturdy (materials? Spectra good here, or do you want something with a
> little give?) rope halo joined with a double fisherman’s bend (
> http://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/double-fishermans/). (There should be
> a standard length of rope you need for a H12 too—enough to be long enough
> to hang down far enough to reach, not so long the tension points dip below
> the roofline)
>
>
> * 6 ratchet straps to tie down the rope halo
>
>
> * 6 Playa Staples to tie the ratchet straps into the ground (
> http://www.ironmonkeyarts.org/playa-staples.html). “Regular” (10”) size
> is fine.
>
>
> * x' by y' tarp (Vinay, what’s that fancy nano material tarp you were
> talking about a few months ago?)
>
>
> * Thin (how thin?) 4’ x 8’ ply for the outer protective sandwich to
> protect the packed yurt.
>
>
>
> Construction:
>
>
> * Beveled edge cuts. (I have an idea about a 3d-printable tool that will
> accept a standard snap-off blade and make perfect bevelled edges. I will
> post again when I get to prototyping.)
>
>
> * “Camp Danger Hinges” (you don’t need “loose hinges” if you bevel your
> edges, do you?)
>
>
> * Velcro strips for the over-the-roof, wall section and tension-band
> joins. 3” hook-side strips of velcro stuck directly to the appropriate
> places of the roof and wall joins with its own adhesive (surely if you
> clean the surface properly a 3” wide strip is never coming off?) with the
> loop-sides stitched onto hemmed canvas strips. Important: one, single,
> unbroken strip of canvas as the tension band going all around the top of
> the wall/roof-cone join, sticking to itself with a patch of “hook” sewn
> onto the back of itself at one end (does that make sense?)
>
>
> * Foil tape over all permanent tape hinges and joins, to prevent
> degradation of the bi-filament tape. On anything other than Thermax HD or
> other thick-facing boards, a couple of runs of foil tape 6” up from the
> bottom of the wall panels, onto which you stick the tarp with gaffer or
> bifi (so it doesn’t take the board facing with it when you rip the
> tape/tarp off)
>
>
> * Door: outward-swinging, bevelled edges, curved top corners, top edge
> 4-6” from top of wall panel, rare-earth magnet closure embedded into the
> jamb, flattened tape (or string?) handle inside (so there’s nothing that
> can’t fold flat)
>
>
> Is any of the above screamingly controversial?
>
>
> Cheers, Robert.
>
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