On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 11:38 PM, Robert Atkins <[email protected]>wrote:

> On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 1:35:23 AM UTC+2, Vladimir Khodel wrote:
>
>> Yeap, this will do :) Of course if you want to go multi-year, substitute
>> 500D or even 1000D cordura (or clear vinyl!?) for that 6" bdf tape...
>>
>
> Attached to the panels with some kind of glue? Which, exactly? Part number?
>
> Has this technique been playa-tested yet? Is it better (for what reason?),
> easier or cheaper than 6" bidi tape protected with foil?
>
>
Here is the glue:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-1-gal-Weldwood-Original-Contact-Cement-207534/203661572

Cordura lasts many many years (it's suitcase/backpack fabric), glue seems
to last as well and can be touched up with 3M spray 90. You can sew on all
kinds of useful things - velcro, straps, loops, zippers... The idea is to
spend a little more upfront assuming available winter storage... :)



> Also, 3d printing is cool, but 1.5" panels are actually pretty uneven
>> (kind of sad really), so referencing your angles off the edge of the board
>> would give pretty horrible results compared to the theoretical precision of
>> your awesome tool... so doing angles with a beveled 2x4 might just be
>> better :)
>>
>
> Oh arse. You mean the edge isn't square enough, or the top of the panel
> itself isn't flat enough? For what I've got in mind, what I remember of the
> R-Max I've used in the past would have been fine. In your experience the
> 1.5" Thermax wouldn't?
>

We only used R-Max so far and I've seen voids, cracks, separating foil,
uneven thickness, what have you, so a jig that follows the  edge might not
work well. Of course if you make it as a trolley on a 2x4, that would take
care of this problem to a large degree.


>
> Got a pic or diagram of exactly what you mean when you say "bevelled 2x4"?
> I'll ping my 3d printing guy and post a picture of that model soon.
>
>
We just have a 10' long 2x4 where I cut a 60" degree bevel along the entire
length. We clamp it down and cut along.


> Not sure about playa staples, candy cane rebar works fine for us.
>>
>
> Bought some once and they're awesome. Secure, easier to get in and out.
> Looks like they may not be available this year though :-(.
>

We use vise-grips and candy canes come right out with a quick twist.


>
> (also if you are into woodworking at all :) check out the BFD mod 
> <http://www.appropedia.org/BFD_mod>- that door frame will also protect your 
> stack of panels in transit)
>>
>
> A constraint I guess I didn't mention is the lack of woodworking
> equipment. I'm coming from overseas this year (heck, every year) and I'll
> have a maximum of a couple of days to prepare and build. Snap-off blade
> knives are easy to get hold of; jigsaws, circular saws dust extraction
> equipment and other powered paraphernalia less so.
>
>
Yeah, this would add a couple of hours to the build, but the whole thing is
really just a bunch of 4" wide strips of 3/4" plywood overlayed and glued
(or even just bolted, which will make it more portable if that is needed)
into a trapezoid. Get a 7" circular saw for $30 and a couple of really
straight 2x4s and you are in business :)



> I would love a taller door and I've been playing around with using another
> panel or three cut longways to add either 1' or 2' to the wall height, but
> that leaves you with an odd-sized stack that is delicate to transport and
> won't fit in the biggest covered U-Haul. Still thinking about this one, I'd
> so love to not have to get onto hands and knees to get into the yurt.
>

My BFD mod, H13 or even H14 all seem to be packable into a 4x8 stack,
mostly folding, so it can  be done :)

Cheers,

Vladimir



> Thank you for putting this together!
>>
>
> No problem!
>
> Cheers, Robert.
>
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