Hi Jacob - I've read your posts on here, the guide and videos on your Google Drive, as well as your posts on Eplaya. First off - thank you for putting together such a comprehensive guide! I am looking to apply this to my pentayurt (H10) this year, and have a couple questions which would greatly help me out:
1. What are your thoughts following the method of foil taping the edges rather than using masking tape or contact cement? I already have a large roll of 3" foil. 2. For the 'loose' hinges, did you use both 7 inch on the inside as well as the outside? 3. Thoughts on using vinyl/cc hinges for doors & windows? 4. For my structure, which needs longer lengths of vinyl, can't I just buy a few yards of vinyl and cut them length-wise? 5. Thoughts on using a hand roller to minimize bubbles? http://www.istscientific.com/user/products/large/quickseal-hand-roller.jpg Again I can't thank you enough for putting together all of the resources that you have!!!! On Sunday, July 7, 2013 11:45:17 PM UTC-6, Jacob Rodriguez wrote: > > Sorry, not sure about "tap plastics". The stuff I'm buying is used for > covering furniture, or used as storm windows or whatever. Marine vinyl is > really good. I used to think it was 4 gauge vinyl, but it's actually 12 > gauge. Probably best to make sure it's UV treated, but mine doesn't say > specifically and is proving itself quite well outside for the past month or > so. No cracking or getting hard or anything. Anything that is sold to be > used outdoors is what you're looking for. > > Here's a link to Amazon to give you an idea of what you want: > http://www.amazon.com/No-Manufacturer-Gauge-Clear-Vinyl/dp/B003ZFA4LM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373261515&sr=8-1&keywords=12+gauge+vinyl > > I've also just updated a document that explains a lot of stuff here > <https://docs.google.com/document/d/1x-PUR8OMG-4_uxGuXYmoctYTdwBAl8R0mYkJc0gnCYY/edit?usp=sharing>. > > One thing I just learned is not to use the "eco friendly" contact cement > that cleans up with water. Use the hardcore stuff. I'm all for saving the > environment, but the 'Woodweld' in a green can is not what you want (takes > too long to get tacky and dry). Find the "original" stuff in the red can if > you can. > > Using 4 vs 6 inches is up to you. I'm personally going with 4 inches for > my tight hinges (giving me 2 inches of contact on either board) and then 7 > inch strips on my loose hinges (3 inches will be taken up by my board > thickness (1.5"), and then 2" on each surface). In my experience, that > seems to be plenty strong. See my tests > <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9akv0Z5bU-IazJmZ2NHa2l3dVU&usp=sharing> > (labeled > "Test") on various things. Those prototypes only have 1.5 inches on each > board, and some of that is over masking tape, reducing their adhesion; they > hold up pretty well. Though it never hurts to overbuild, and if you're > doing a regular hexayurt, you won't use too much, so why not? On my quad > dome, I have something like 136 joins/edges that need to be done, so I will > require about 31 yds of the stuff. Something like that anyway. > > Have fun! > > > > > On Friday, July 5, 2013 10:00:32 PM UTC-7, Steve Upstill (Swifty) wrote: >> >> I LOVE this discussion of hinging technology and I'm sold on replacing my >> "permanent" tape hinges with the vinyl/contact cement combo--at least for >> purposes of experimentation. Could someone with experience provide a quick >> buying guide for the stuff? Vinyl is a many-varied beast and it would be >> nice to know exactly what to head for. Is Tap Plastics my friend in this >> department? Anybody have any data about 4" vs. 6" strips? ...and so forth... >> >> Many Thanks, >> Steve Upstill >> >> On Thursday, March 28, 2013 1:17:41 PM UTC-7, Jacob Rodriguez wrote: >>> >>> So, I'm going to be building a quarter sized nearodesic polyhedron >>> ("quad") dome (1 rmax sheet = 8 triangles) for BRC this year. >>> >>> My foamcore and masking tape prototypes (1:12 and 1:5 scale) have been >>> going well. I'm learning how to do the tape hinges, and how to miter the >>> edges with a razor and angled metal guide. I'm thinking that the full size >>> version will be relatively easy to prepare and construct. My end result is >>> a 6' high, 12' diameter dome that folds down into a 4' x 4' x 15" high box. >>> Minimal tape is required as all but one edge of each quad is hinged with >>> fabric and adhesive. Only the top square, and 4 "corners" need to be fully >>> taped together. >>> >>> I'm seeing lots of people commenting on how the BFT (bi-filament tape) >>> is not really UV resistant, so it flakes off eventually. Also, that it's >>> barely a semi-permanent solution, even if you do tape hinges instead of >>> one-time assembly. I've considered many different types of ways to join the >>> triangles that would last more than one or two times: >>> >>> - zippers (needed like 400 of them, really really expensive) >>> - button snaps and straps (would glue on the snaps to the boards, then >>> use a strap to snap them together; this is not weather proof at all) >>> - velcro (again, pretty expensive if you use the really good velcro, >>> which is likely the only way to guarantee structural integrity and >>> 'weatherproof-ness') >>> - magnets (even using strong ones (N45), embedding them in the edges of >>> the triangles, they could jsut fall out, and still not weather proof. also >>> $$$) >>> >>> ..and a couple of other ideas. I've learned that putting metal >>> hooks/rods/bolts (binder clips) through the boards will just rip through it >>> with a strong enough tug. They could end up just getting loose and boring >>> out big holes. Using plus-shaped ("+") hooks/rods to fasten some sort of >>> fabric over the joints are slightly better because they resist being pulled >>> like a wire cutter through the board, but you would have holes in the board >>> and water could get in. Also, excessive force would also just make the >>> holes looser and ruin the boards eventually. But the idea of using some >>> sort of fabric seems to hold merit. >>> >>> My main goal is to build something that can easily be packed away, and >>> assembled multiple time. Realizing that the main principles of a good BM >>> structure are to seal out rain, dust and light, I think I've come up with a >>> possible solution, but I'm curious why I can't find anyone who has tried >>> it.* >>> I'm hoping to get some cautionary tales or some encouragement on using >>> sport nylon (as opposed to ripstop), and some Super 77 or 80 or 90 spray >>> adhesive, instead of the traditional tape.* >>> >>> The cost might be a little more expensive up front (depending on some >>> factors), but I'm thinking that the nylon will last much longer than just >>> about any tape and is probably just as strong (if not stronger) than BFT. >>> From what I've read, a lot of people end up using some 77 spray anyway >>> because of the lubricating residue on the boards. I'm curious if it's more >>> UV resistant (or at least the adhesive would be) and therefore survive the >>> endless sun bathing better. Also, the concept of cutting fabric into strips >>> and using spray adhesive as a backing gives the user many more options when >>> it comes to materials (stronger fabric and/or stronger glue), rather than >>> just limiting to such a rare find as 6" BFT. Though I'm sure that sport >>> nylon "tape" is even more rare. You can also make the strips as wide as you >>> want, so you are not limited there either. >>> >>> I've built a prototype of a hinged triangle using foamcore, sport nylon >>> and Super 77, which seems very, very strong. Stronger than masking tape >>> anyway. I'm thinking that while it's not waterproof out of the box, I could >>> always spray with some scotchguard, or tape over everything with the foil >>> tape. Foil tape would also help any concerns on fire-hazard as the adhesive >>> is quite flammable. I put a hairdrier on it for about 10 mins on high, to >>> see if excessive heat made the glue loosen, but it did quite well. I'm >>> thinking the higher temp ratings of 80 or 90 adhesive will help in that >>> area. Maybe instead of foil tape. I can spray with some sort of coating >>> that will protect against fire and water at the same time. >>> >>> For cost comparison, my project would be using about 6 rolls of 60yd >>> tape. That's about $20 a roll. Plus about 4 rolls of foil tape (for outside >>> only) at another $20 a roll. I'm thinking that a can of adhesive will last >>> quite a long time, so I may only need about 3 cans at about $20 a pop. The >>> fabric is not that expensive (maybe 5 dollars a yard), so I think all in >>> all, I might come out saving a little cash (if any at all), but ending up >>> with a much more permanent/reusable solution. >>> >>> Anyway, what do you all think? I'm going to be purchasing a piece of >>> polyIso to test. I'm going to make a single "quad" using this nylon and >>> adhesive, then leaving it up on my roof for a week or two to see how it >>> handles the weather. It's Santa Monica CA weather so not quite the same, >>> but should give a good indication as to whether it will survive at all. >>> >>> Thanks for reading! >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
