Interesting-looking product. Commercial grade? Don't know about you, but I'm in California - where it can't be shipped... or sold? I talked with the DAP factory rep who assured me that the Original Contact Cement was the best I could buy. The can says "High heat resistance."
If the material your link talks about is available, I'd love to know how to get some. On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 12:52 PM, Bruiser Smith <[email protected]> wrote: > Did you use the DAP Weldwood HHR Contact Cement specifically? > > http://www.yourautotrim.com/noname37.html > > It seems like it's highly recommended for vinyl applications for car > interiors as it's rated for 250F. > > > On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 1:18:52 PM UTC-6, BurnerDan wrote: > >> Watch out for contact cement losing it in high heat! I used it (the >> original non-water-based - because DAP recommended it over the water >> version) to attach vinyl fabric in my interior build-out of my Sprinter >> here in LA (where we see Burning Man temps). It started off looking great, >> seemed to have an excellent bond to metal, wood, etc. When it started >> letting go a year or so later, I asked around and sure enough, it's not >> that uncommon. >> >> >> On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 11:29 AM, Bruiser Smith <[email protected]> >> wrote: >> >>> Hi Jacob - >>> >>> I've read your posts on here, the guide and videos on your Google Drive, >>> as well as your posts on Eplaya. First off - thank you for putting together >>> such a comprehensive guide! I am looking to apply this to my pentayurt >>> (H10) this year, and have a couple questions which would greatly help me >>> out: >>> >>> >>> 1. What are your thoughts following the method of foil taping the >>> edges rather than using masking tape or contact cement? I already have a >>> large roll of 3" foil. >>> 2. For the 'loose' hinges, did you use both 7 inch on the inside as >>> well as the outside? >>> 3. Thoughts on using vinyl/cc hinges for doors & windows? >>> 4. For my structure, which needs longer lengths of vinyl, can't I >>> just buy a few yards of vinyl and cut them length-wise? >>> 5. Thoughts on using a hand roller to minimize bubbles? http://www. >>> istscientific.com/user/products/large/quickseal-hand-roller.jpg >>> >>> <http://www.istscientific.com/user/products/large/quickseal-hand-roller.jpg> >>> >>> >>> Again I can't thank you enough for putting together all of the resources >>> that you have!!!! >>> >>> On Sunday, July 7, 2013 11:45:17 PM UTC-6, Jacob Rodriguez wrote: >>>> >>>> Sorry, not sure about "tap plastics". The stuff I'm buying is used for >>>> covering furniture, or used as storm windows or whatever. Marine vinyl is >>>> really good. I used to think it was 4 gauge vinyl, but it's actually 12 >>>> gauge. Probably best to make sure it's UV treated, but mine doesn't say >>>> specifically and is proving itself quite well outside for the past month or >>>> so. No cracking or getting hard or anything. Anything that is sold to be >>>> used outdoors is what you're looking for. >>>> >>>> Here's a link to Amazon to give you an idea of what you want: >>>> http://www.amazon.com/No-Manufacturer-Gauge-Clear-Viny >>>> l/dp/B003ZFA4LM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373261515&sr=8-1& >>>> keywords=12+gauge+vinyl >>>> >>>> I've also just updated a document that explains a lot of stuff here >>>> <https://docs.google.com/document/d/1x-PUR8OMG-4_uxGuXYmoctYTdwBAl8R0mYkJc0gnCYY/edit?usp=sharing>. >>>> One thing I just learned is not to use the "eco friendly" contact cement >>>> that cleans up with water. Use the hardcore stuff. I'm all for saving the >>>> environment, but the 'Woodweld' in a green can is not what you want (takes >>>> too long to get tacky and dry). Find the "original" stuff in the red can if >>>> you can. >>>> >>>> Using 4 vs 6 inches is up to you. I'm personally going with 4 inches >>>> for my tight hinges (giving me 2 inches of contact on either board) and >>>> then 7 inch strips on my loose hinges (3 inches will be taken up by my >>>> board thickness (1.5"), and then 2" on each surface). In my experience, >>>> that seems to be plenty strong. See my tests >>>> <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9akv0Z5bU-IazJmZ2NHa2l3dVU&usp=sharing> >>>> (labeled >>>> "Test") on various things. Those prototypes only have 1.5 inches on each >>>> board, and some of that is over masking tape, reducing their adhesion; they >>>> hold up pretty well. Though it never hurts to overbuild, and if you're >>>> doing a regular hexayurt, you won't use too much, so why not? On my quad >>>> dome, I have something like 136 joins/edges that need to be done, so I will >>>> require about 31 yds of the stuff. Something like that anyway. >>>> >>>> Have fun! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Friday, July 5, 2013 10:00:32 PM UTC-7, Steve Upstill (Swifty) wrote: >>>>> >>>>> I LOVE this discussion of hinging technology and I'm sold on replacing >>>>> my "permanent" tape hinges with the vinyl/contact cement combo--at least >>>>> for purposes of experimentation. Could someone with experience provide a >>>>> quick buying guide for the stuff? Vinyl is a many-varied beast and it >>>>> would >>>>> be nice to know exactly what to head for. Is Tap Plastics my friend in >>>>> this >>>>> department? Anybody have any data about 4" vs. 6" strips? ...and so >>>>> forth... >>>>> >>>>> Many Thanks, >>>>> Steve Upstill >>>>> >>>>> On Thursday, March 28, 2013 1:17:41 PM UTC-7, Jacob Rodriguez wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> So, I'm going to be building a quarter sized nearodesic polyhedron >>>>>> ("quad") dome (1 rmax sheet = 8 triangles) for BRC this year. >>>>>> >>>>>> My foamcore and masking tape prototypes (1:12 and 1:5 scale) have >>>>>> been going well. I'm learning how to do the tape hinges, and how to miter >>>>>> the edges with a razor and angled metal guide. I'm thinking that the full >>>>>> size version will be relatively easy to prepare and construct. My end >>>>>> result is a 6' high, 12' diameter dome that folds down into a 4' x 4' x >>>>>> 15" >>>>>> high box. Minimal tape is required as all but one edge of each quad is >>>>>> hinged with fabric and adhesive. Only the top square, and 4 "corners" >>>>>> need >>>>>> to be fully taped together. >>>>>> >>>>>> I'm seeing lots of people commenting on how the BFT (bi-filament >>>>>> tape) is not really UV resistant, so it flakes off eventually. Also, that >>>>>> it's barely a semi-permanent solution, even if you do tape hinges instead >>>>>> of one-time assembly. I've considered many different types of ways to >>>>>> join >>>>>> the triangles that would last more than one or two times: >>>>>> >>>>>> - zippers (needed like 400 of them, really really expensive) >>>>>> - button snaps and straps (would glue on the snaps to the boards, >>>>>> then use a strap to snap them together; this is not weather proof at all) >>>>>> - velcro (again, pretty expensive if you use the really good velcro, >>>>>> which is likely the only way to guarantee structural integrity and >>>>>> 'weatherproof-ness') >>>>>> - magnets (even using strong ones (N45), embedding them in the edges >>>>>> of the triangles, they could jsut fall out, and still not weather proof. >>>>>> also $$$) >>>>>> >>>>>> ..and a couple of other ideas. I've learned that putting metal >>>>>> hooks/rods/bolts (binder clips) through the boards will just rip through >>>>>> it >>>>>> with a strong enough tug. They could end up just getting loose and boring >>>>>> out big holes. Using plus-shaped ("+") hooks/rods to fasten some sort of >>>>>> fabric over the joints are slightly better because they resist being >>>>>> pulled >>>>>> like a wire cutter through the board, but you would have holes in the >>>>>> board >>>>>> and water could get in. Also, excessive force would also just make the >>>>>> holes looser and ruin the boards eventually. But the idea of using some >>>>>> sort of fabric seems to hold merit. >>>>>> >>>>>> My main goal is to build something that can easily be packed away, >>>>>> and assembled multiple time. Realizing that the main principles of a good >>>>>> BM structure are to seal out rain, dust and light, I think I've come up >>>>>> with a possible solution, but I'm curious why I can't find anyone who has >>>>>> tried it.* I'm hoping to get some cautionary tales or some >>>>>> encouragement on using sport nylon (as opposed to ripstop), and some >>>>>> Super >>>>>> 77 or 80 or 90 spray adhesive, instead of the traditional tape.* >>>>>> >>>>>> The cost might be a little more expensive up front (depending on some >>>>>> factors), but I'm thinking that the nylon will last much longer than just >>>>>> about any tape and is probably just as strong (if not stronger) than BFT. >>>>>> From what I've read, a lot of people end up using some 77 spray anyway >>>>>> because of the lubricating residue on the boards. I'm curious if it's >>>>>> more >>>>>> UV resistant (or at least the adhesive would be) and therefore survive >>>>>> the >>>>>> endless sun bathing better. Also, the concept of cutting fabric into >>>>>> strips >>>>>> and using spray adhesive as a backing gives the user many more options >>>>>> when >>>>>> it comes to materials (stronger fabric and/or stronger glue), rather than >>>>>> just limiting to such a rare find as 6" BFT. Though I'm sure that sport >>>>>> nylon "tape" is even more rare. You can also make the strips as wide as >>>>>> you >>>>>> want, so you are not limited there either. >>>>>> >>>>>> I've built a prototype of a hinged triangle using foamcore, sport >>>>>> nylon and Super 77, which seems very, very strong. Stronger than masking >>>>>> tape anyway. I'm thinking that while it's not waterproof out of the box, >>>>>> I >>>>>> could always spray with some scotchguard, or tape over everything with >>>>>> the >>>>>> foil tape. Foil tape would also help any concerns on fire-hazard as the >>>>>> adhesive is quite flammable. I put a hairdrier on it for about 10 mins on >>>>>> high, to see if excessive heat made the glue loosen, but it did quite >>>>>> well. >>>>>> I'm thinking the higher temp ratings of 80 or 90 adhesive will help in >>>>>> that >>>>>> area. Maybe instead of foil tape. I can spray with some sort of coating >>>>>> that will protect against fire and water at the same time. >>>>>> >>>>>> For cost comparison, my project would be using about 6 rolls of 60yd >>>>>> tape. That's about $20 a roll. Plus about 4 rolls of foil tape (for >>>>>> outside >>>>>> only) at another $20 a roll. I'm thinking that a can of adhesive will >>>>>> last >>>>>> quite a long time, so I may only need about 3 cans at about $20 a pop. >>>>>> The >>>>>> fabric is not that expensive (maybe 5 dollars a yard), so I think all in >>>>>> all, I might come out saving a little cash (if any at all), but ending up >>>>>> with a much more permanent/reusable solution. >>>>>> >>>>>> Anyway, what do you all think? I'm going to be purchasing a piece of >>>>>> polyIso to test. I'm going to make a single "quad" using this nylon and >>>>>> adhesive, then leaving it up on my roof for a week or two to see how it >>>>>> handles the weather. It's Santa Monica CA weather so not quite the same, >>>>>> but should give a good indication as to whether it will survive at all. >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks for reading! >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>> Groups "hexayurt" group. >>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>> an email to [email protected]. >>> To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. >>> >>> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. >>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>> >> >> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. 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