Thank you, Scott. The tangent loose in the hole is not a problem, but I do not have all the tangents flat on the keys, some won't push in that far. So, that's something I ought to be able to fix. However, that isn't possible on a couple of the keys in the upper register that had to be cut away to clear the keys next to them.
Yep, I know the pair of tangents need to hit at the same time. That's what's been driving me nuts as I think I've finally set and shaved the little darlin's just right and in 10 minutes, they're out of tune again. Anna Clemenger at OTW discovered that my metal tangents were hitting the open string, so I have been conscious of that this time around. Mike Gilpin and Chris Allen have helped me with how to cut the tangents and shape the shafts and what tangents of the period should look like. My husband cuts the blanks for me, as I'm not a woodworker, but I do all the sanding and filing. The open strings sound quite good, no keybox roar that I can hear. I should mention another variable since OTW. I've gone an octave lower with one of my chanterelles, that being a metal wound viola string instead of a gut. Luckily, Cali picked my strings for me. Graham's Colson sounded so lovely with the octave difference, I just had to try that. I'm so glad I've fallen into a hurdy gurdy community. This would be impossible alone. Thank you all. Barbara On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 10:32 PM, <[email protected]> wrote: > Hello Barbara, > > I couple of important thins about wood tangents. > > 1) They must be tight in the hole and not wiggle. If you push back on them > and they move they are going to be a problem. They will be in tune when you > first push them and go out of tune as you push harder. Also, they will not > match the other string. > > 2) They must not vibrate on the key. Once in the hole the entire bottom of > the tangent should rest across the key. If not they vibrate and cause a > growl or cause the note to go out. The bottom of the tangent should be > perfectly flat all the way to the post and around the post. > > 3) The tangents must touch the string at exactly the same time. I figured > you knew this one but it is always good to include it in the list. > > 4) The tangent can be closer to the string on the ends closest to the nut > and wheel but need to allow a lot of clearance in the center at the octave. > The tangents can form an arc that matches the strings vibration arc. > > 5) If you do not crank the wheel at playing speed when setting the tangents > up for proper distance the string will vibrate more when played at speed and > can touch a tangent causing a buzzing sound. > > 6) Keybox roar is common on some instruments. If you hear a roaring sound > when playing open string, try resting your hand on the top of the keybox or > putting slight pressure on the main bridge and see fi the roar goes away. > > Hope this helps. > > Scott > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > Groups "hurdygurdy" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]<hurdygurdy%[email protected]> > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/hurdygurdy > > The rules of posting, courtesy, and other list information may be found at > http://hurdygurdy.com/mailinglist/index.htm. To reduce spam, posts from > new subscribers are held pending approval by the webmaster. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hurdygurdy" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hurdygurdy The rules of posting, courtesy, and other list information may be found at http://hurdygurdy.com/mailinglist/index.htm. To reduce spam, posts from new subscribers are held pending approval by the webmaster.
