Judy,
There is a significant difference! I was picturing how my configuration would look with the reef cringle at the slot, and it wasn't pretty. Now I see why your set-up works. Bob Stockley Sundance #2436 --- In [email protected], "Judith Blumhorst, DC" <drju...@...> wrote: > > Hi Bob, > > On my 1977 boat, (I'm guessing) it's about 8" from the top of the boom to the > top of the sail slot cutaway. Here's a picture I took years ago when I was > fitting the new boom on the OEM mast . You can see a pin that functions as a > sail stop (of sorts) installed at top of the cutout. > > I want to retract some of the description of where I installed the fairleads > on the mast for the reefing lines. Now that I think about it some more, I > don't think I installed them above the cutaway. It's been 6 years since I > did all that work. Next time I''m working on the boat, I'll take a picture > and take some measurements of the stack of sail slugs and the reefing lines. > > I was out at the marina for a short time yesterday, but I didn't think to look > > Fair winds, > > Judy B > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Bob <kniggit...@...> > To: [email protected] > Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 7:52:39 PM > Subject: [IC27A] Re: Reefing Lines led aft (was: Judy - C27 CE) > > > > > > Hi Judy, > > I have between (I'm estimating from memory) 18 and 24 inches between the > gooseneck and the sail slot. Does that sound about right or is there a > difference between the tall rig and standard besides the total length. I > fixed the gooseneck right at the lower black band, although I have never > checked all the measurements. I don't race, but the PO did, so I've just > assumed they were correct. > > Bob Stockley > Sundance #2436 > > --- In ic...@yahoogroups. com, "Judith Blumhorst, DC" <DrJudyB@ > wrote: > > > > Hi Bob, > > > > Thanks for the kind words. > > > > Getting the reef cringle down to the boom isn't required for reefing. > > > > What IS required is that the reef tack cringle be held securely to the mast > > so it can't pull away from the mast (thereby ripping the luff of the > > sail). > > The reef line has to pull the reef tack forward and down, but not > > necessarily down to the boom. > > > > When I rebuilt the mast, I installed the fairleads for the reefing lines > > above the sailslot and the stack of sail slugs. Rather than trying to > > get the cringle down to the gooseneck, I moved the fairleads for the reef > > lines up the mast, up above the sail slot and stack of slugs. It the > > simplest possible design, I think, and it has worked flawlessly for us so > > far. > > > > The only time you have to get the cringle down to the gooseneck is when you > > use a reef horn rather than a reef line. That's just because the horn is > > attached to the gooseneck, right? > > > > I've got a set of mast gates made by Garhauer for the C27, but I never > > installed 'em. I think my approach is far less complicated and less likely > > to cause complications. > > > > Bijou's gooseneck is fixed, because I can't think of any compelling > > advantage to having a sliding gooseneck, imo. (I can think of a couple of > > reasons why I prefer fixed goosneck to a sliding one.) I replaced the OEM > > boom and gooseneck with a much sbeefier Selden setup within a month of > > buying the boat. > > > > Fair winds, > > Judy B > > > > > > > > > > ____________ _________ _________ __ > > From: Bob <kniggit713@ ...> > > To: ic...@yahoogroups. com > > Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 12:34:13 PM > > Subject: [IC27A] Re: Judy - C27 CE > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Judy, > > > > Great explanation, and great set-up. It never occurred to me to stack the > > lines as you did. After experimenting for several seasons I gave up on > > single line reefing and went to double as you did. Just too much friction > > with a single line I guess. Do you allow your gooseneck to slide up to meet > > the reef cringle? > > > > I installed sail track gates, and bolted my gooseneck in position. It > > seemed to create fewer complications that way. > > > > And Thank You again for sharing your knowledge with us. Your website and > > posts are an inspiration, and a great reference. > > > > Bob Stockley > > Sundance #2436 > > > > --- In ic...@yahoogroups. com, "Judith Blumhorst, DC" <DrJudyB@ > wrote: > > > > > > Here ya go, Joe -- a picture and an explanation of how I ran the lines > > > aft to the cockpit on my boat. Take a look at the picture before you > > > read this, please. Otherwise it won't make any sense to you.  > > > > > > There are six lines running aft on each side of the companionway (12 > > > total) , 3 on the "top level" and 3 on the bottom level. It's a lot of > > > extra work to get 6 lines down each side, because there's really only > > > room for 4, and you don't need to do that unless you're > > > compulsive/obsessiv e about rigging like I am. > > > > > > The really important lines are the main and jib halyards, 4 reefing > > > lines, vang, and cunningham (and maybe outhaul). Spinny lines can be > > > left at the mast > > > > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~ > > > > > > Here's the important design stuff: > > > > > > I use a "double line" slab reefing system with one line for the reef > > > tack at the mast and another line for the reef clew at the end of the > > > boom. I believe it's the easiest, versitile and reliable system. > > >  > > > The main and jib halyards and 4 the reefing lines (6 lines in all) need > > > to be logically arranged to make reefing quick and efficient. > > >  > > > Three lines on each side lead through rope clutches to a cabintop > > > winch. > > >  > > > On port, the three top lines also run through Spinlock clutches to a > > > Harken #16 winch, and the three top lines are the jib halyard, the 1st > > > reef clew line, and the 2nds reef clew line. > > >  > > > On starboard, the top three lines run through Spinlock rope clutches to a > > > Harken #16 single speed self-tailing winch. They are the main halyard, > > > 1st reef tack line, and 2nd reef tack line. > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~ > > > Here's the way we reef: > > > 1. Reef early and make sure you have plenty of sea room in which to heave > > > to or sail while reefing > > > 1. If there's a lot of boat traffic, try to be sailing on starboard > > > tack on a reach while you reef, so you have right of way. > > > 2. If you're going to sail out from the lee of an island or mountian or > > > into a wind line, plan to reef before you cross the line > > > 2. Heave-to or ease the mainsheet and sail on jib alone. > > > 1. If you've got crew, have them sail on starboard tack under jib alone, > > > a little above or below a beam reach depending on the waves, so the > > > boat is steady.  > > > 2. We reef on any point of sail except a run, according to our searoom > > > and the waves   > > > 3. Get the lines clutches and winches ready > > > 1. Flake out your main halyard and your front (tack) and back > > > (clew) reef lines so they aren't tangled up and you know where they are. > > > 2. Close all the rope clutches securely > > > 3.  Loosely put the put the main halyard on the starboard winch and put > > > the winch handle in. > > > 4.  Ease the outhaul! (Otherwise you may rip out sail slides when you > > > ease the main halyard) > > > 5. Ease the vang so it's not pulling the boom down. > > > 6. Pull up on the topping lift to raise the end of the boom (or use your > > > rigid vang to hold up the boom) > > > 4.  On the starboard side: (this takes about 20-30 seconds) > > > 1. Open the rope clutch and lower the main halyard so the reef cringle > > > is at the top of the mast slot. > > > 1. We have a mark on the halyard so I know how much to lower it for the > > > first reef and the second reef > > > 2. If you lower the halyard too far, you can tighten > > > it after you tighten the front reef line. > > > 2. Close the main halyard clutch. > > > 3. Pull the front reef line tight so the reef cringle is held securely > > > against the mast above the sail stop. (You don't need mast gates. It > > > doesn't need to go down all the way if the reef line pulls down and > > > forward in the right place!)  The front reef line must be tight so > > > that you don't the sail slugs out of the sail when you outhaul the reef > > > clew > > > 4. Tighten the main halyard with the winch if necessary.Remove the winch > > > handle and go over to the port side > > > 5. On port side (this takes less than 20 seconds) > > > 1. Make sure the rope clutch for the reef clew line is closed. > > > 2. Tighten the reef line so the foot of the mainsail is fairly tight and > > > the reef clew is held down to the boom > > > 3. If it's really windy, you may need to use the winch to outhaul the > > > reef clew. > > > 6. You're done. Sail on. > > >  > > > We don't bother to tie the reef point lines. The s"lab" of mainsail > > > hanging down isn't big enough to bother us. If we need to use the deep > > > reef, we usually put in the first reef as well as the second, just to > > > keep the mainsail slab from getting in our way.   It adds less than > > > 20 seconds to the routine to pull the reef lines for the first reef hand > > > tight before tightening the line for the second reef. > > >  > > > For a really good article on reefing read > > >  > > > http://www.sailmake r.com/articles/ reefing.htm > > >  > > > by Kame Richards, owner of Pineapple Sails. Kame is an amazing teacher > > > and sailmaker. His knowlege is encyclopedic. It's a privilege to hear > > > him lecture on currents, weather, sail trim, sail handling, driving > > > downwind, etc.  I have learned so much from him that it's hard to > > > describe how much I am indebted to him. > > >  > > > If you want to see more pictures and to read about all the rest of the > > > hardware and gear I put on top of the cabin, read > > > http://www.blumhors t.com/catalina27 /cabintop- lines-aft. htm > > > Please don't get confused by the typos, there are some mistakes on the > > > page. > > >  > > > And, please, I'm not suggesting that anybody needs to do it the > > > complicated way I did! I admit, I get a little carried away > > > sometimes... .    It's a little embarassing. > > >  > > > Hope this answers your questions,  > > > Judy B > > > 1977 C27 Tall Rig #3459, "Bijou" > > > San Francisco Bay, CA > > > http://www.blumhors t.com/catalina27 /catalinahomepag e.htm > > > > > >  > > > > > > ____________ _________ _________ __ > > > From: Joe McCaru <joe@> > > > To: ic...@yahoogroups. com > > > Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 8:59:45 PM > > > Subject: RE: [IC27A] Judy - C27 CE > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Judy, the next time you are down at your boat, could you take some photos > > > of your halyard and reefing line layout on the cabin top. I have been > > > considering adding cockpit lines to make it safer than climbing on the > > > cabin to reef (at the worst possible time). > > >  > > >  > > > Joe McCary > > > Aeolus II, West River, MD > > > www.aeoluswestriver .net > > > joe at photoresponse dot com > > >  > > > > > > > >
