Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 20:16:24 +1100 From: Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [LIB] XP on L100 at 266
At 10:12 AM 14/03/2003 -0800, you wrote:
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 18:08:21 +0000 From: "Matthew Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: XP on L100 at 266
Hey Raymond,
Good to see you're back!
Good to be back ... for now :-)
Things will start heating up again soon though so I might be silent for another month soon ... *sigh* ...
Okay... I've been using the 100 with XP clocked at 266 for a little over a day and a half now, and I'm amazed that it hasn't had heat problems again.
I guess EAC really pushed the CPU a lot harder than most of what I do on the system. Also, XP has CPU idling in the OS, and I wasn't using Amnhlt or any other CPU idling programs before I clocked up.
Sounds good ... if I lived in a slightly cooler climate I might push mine to 266 as well ... I know you know this but for reference, Windows NT and 2k also have CPU idling built in ... I *think* Linux (at least Red Hat 6 and above) have it as well.
After it did shutdown that one time, I sat a fan beside the 100 and spent a couple of hours doing work on the systen with no problem. The next day I didn't turn the fan on, and had the 100 running the entire day. I worked on it for a good deal of the day in 75 - 80 degrees F. without it ever shutting down. But I haven't yet tried ripping a CD with EAC again. I'll definately turn the fan on for that one.
I keep my L100 running all day as well with a wireless LAN card in the bottom slot ... it does get quite warm but it has never shut down on me in normal office air conditioning, even when rendering or compiling ... I guess me standing it on the end is more to be safe (and when I'm not in air conditioning).
Bah ... that component is a zero-ohm resistor (ie. a wire link). They didn't use an actual wire link because it's easier to populate the board when all the components are the same size. Just flick it out with a hot soldering iron then use a little bit of wire to bridge the 3 pads as marked (it's probably easier to go between the right 2 pads rather than go around them, just put a little 'hump' in the wire so it doesn't short anything out).
My problem is dealing with things so small. How do you grab onto the 'resistor' to pull it out? I'm afraid I'm going to be so clumsy with the iron trying to heat and pull at the same time, that I'll risk damaging something either from heat or badly applied force.
I just heated both ends at once by laying the soldering iron over it, then lifting it off (it stuck to the iron so well I had trouble getting it off without tweezers!).
P.S. Yes I am still here ... waaayyyyy behind in my list emails (I'm reading them in reverse order) but I am still here ... hehe
I hope you weren't saving the list posts until you had time to read them all! 8-0
Hehe ... I've come to know that doing so would be a lost cause on most active lists :-D
- Raymond
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