Or, as Mike and I both have said more than once already, just get a cable where all these mysteries have already been solved, all in a single piece.

The one Mike S linked, that Monoprice 479 is actually fine even though what I said about the hardware handshaking is also true. I used to use that exact cable myself for a while until John pointed out that it didn't have rts/cts, which means it's good for everything except HTERM. It's great. It is wired for null-modem already inside, it already has a male 25 pin on one side and a female 9 pin on the other end, and it's cheap. It works fine for tpdd emulation and anything else that only uses software flow control, which is just about everything.

The Cables2Go one I linked is all the same, except it also has rts/cts, so it works with HTERM, as well as everything else.

And finally, the StarTech one I linked, is also all the same, but without shorting DCD to DSR, or shorting DTR to DSR, which means that one should cause the least possible drain on any possibly weak power rails in the M100.

All this mystery has already been completely figured out and nailed down. One mouse click and $7 later and you're done.

--
bkw

On 4/9/19 9:00 PM, Kurt McCullum wrote:
I would test them all just to see what's going on.

On Tue, Apr 9, 2019, at 5:59 PM, Thomas Morehouse wrote:
Thanks Kurt.

Testing the DB9-DB25 adapter only - not the usb/serial cable - I have continuity NOT from pin 4 of the DB9 to pin 6 of the DB25.  I have continuity from pin 4 of the DB9 to pin 20 of the DB25.  That's using the numbers printed at the pins themselves.

Should I even bother testing the others you suggest? Sounds like the adapter already fails the test.

Tom M.


On Tue, Apr 9, 2019 at 8:48 PM Kurt McCullum <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:


    Ignore the USB to serial piece of the puzzle. As Brian said, it's
    just a serial port. Test the 9 to 25 adapter. One end will be
    female so it's easier to put something like the end of a paper
    clip into one hole at a time then put the probe on that.

    Kurt

    On Tue, Apr 9, 2019, at 5:22 PM, Thomas Morehouse wrote:
    OK - looks like I wasn't clear.  In Kurt's post, he writes:

    "Take one probe of the meter and put it on pin 4 of the DB9 and
    the other on pin 6 of the DB25. It should beep or light up
    (however you meter functions to indicate a connection). Then do
    the same for the DSR line on pin 6 to pin 20. And finally the
    RTS and CTS pins 7->5 and 8-> 4. If they are crossed in some
    manner, then you will not get a beep or a light."

    If the usb/serial cable is a single unit (usb at one end, DB9 at
    the other), how do I put one probe of the meter on the DB9 and
    the other probe of the meter on the DB25?  There's no DB25 on
    the cable, unless I plug the 9-25 adapter into the DB9 - but
    then I can't put a probe on the DB9.   Jeez I feel dense.

    I'm really sorry I can't follow this, but maybe I'm just
    overlooking something really simple?

    Thanks.
    Tom M.


    On Tue, Apr 9, 2019 at 7:56 PM Brian K. White
    <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

        You don't check continuity on the usb-serial adapter. That
        isn't just a
        cable, it's really a peripheral like a disk drive or a
        printer, it just
        happens to be a peripheral that all fits entirely inside the
        plug
        housing on one end of it. There is no simple direct wire
        mapping between
        the usb pins and the serial pins.  Between the usb pins and
        the serial
        pins, there is circuit board with a chip and a few other
        components
        which is converting and translatine between two entirely
        different kinds
        of signals and protocols.

        You treat the usb-serial adapter as just a serial *port*,
        and ignore
        that it looks like a wire. Just pretend it's like a serial
        port built in
        to the back of an old desktop.

        You check the continuity of the serial cable, which IS "just
        a cable".
        Or, really, you check the continuity of the combined serial
        cable with
        any null-modem and gender-changer adapters, and treat that
        all together
        as one "cable".

-- bkw

        On 4/9/19 6:56 PM, Thomas Morehouse wrote:
        > Thanks Kurt.  I'm even denser than usual tonight I guess.
        >
        > From earlier posts, seems the problem (102 screen
        dimming) is likely
        > caused by the usb/serial cable.  One end of the cable is a
        usb plug;
        > other end is the DB9.
        >
        > So I'm afraid I don't know how to test continuity on the
        cable.  I can
        > find pin 4 of the DB9 - but where does the DB25 fit in the
        picture?
        >
        > Or, are you saying to test the cable with the DB9/DB25
        adapter plugged
        > into the cable?
        >
        > Sorry to be the dolt again.
        > Tom M.
        >
        >
        > On Tue, Apr 9, 2019 at 10:57 AM Kurt McCullum
        <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
        > <mailto:[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>>
        wrote:
        >
        >     There are store bought cables that work well. Brian
        has done a
        >     great job putting together a list of those cables. For
        my machines
        >     I have a mixture of custom made cables or slim
        adapters. Both
        >     methods work and give me the pinout below. When you
        get the cable
        >     right, your M102 will be happy.
        >
        >     But to the question at hand, don't tear apart your
        cable. Check
        >     it. Right now you know that pins 2,3 and 5 are all
        going to the
        >     right locations. You will need to check pins 4,6,7 and
        8. Since
        >     those are paired lines (4/6, 7/8) one or both pairs
        will be flipped.
        >
        >     If you have a multi-meter which has a continuity check
        on it then
        >     you test both ends of the wire.
        >
        >     Here is what I have found to work on all my machines
        and I include
        >     this in the mComm manual.
        >
        >     7 Wire Cable
        >     PC
        >
        >       Model-T
        >     DCD
        >       1
        >       NC
        >
        >
        >     RX
        >       2
        >       →
        >       2
        >       TX
        >     TX
        >       3
        >       ←
        >       3
        >       RX
        >     DTR
        >       4
        >       ←
        >       6
        >       DSR
        >     GND
        >       5
        >       ↔
        >       7
        >       GND
        >     DSR
        >       6
        >       ←
        >       20
        >       DTR
        >     RTS
        >       7
        >       →
        >       5
        >       CTS
        >     CTS
        >       8
        >       ←
        >       4
        >       RTS
        >     RI
        >       9
        >       NC
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >     Take one probe of the meter and put it on pin 4 of the
        DB9 and the
        >     other on pin 6 of the DB25. It should beep or light up
        (however
        >     you meter functions to indicate a connection). Then do
        the same
        >     for the DSR line on pin 6 to pin 20. And finally the
        RTS and CTS
        >     pins 7->5 and 8-> 4. If they are crossed in some
        manner, then you
        >     will not get a beep or a light.
        >
        >     Hope that makes sense.
        >
        >     Kurt
        >
        >
        >     On Tue, Apr 9, 2019, at 7:38 AM, Thomas Morehouse wrote:
        >>     Thanks for the comments gents. Learn something every day.
        >>
        >>     Kurt, on the "crossed wires" issue, what is the
        procedure for
        >>     fixing the problem?  I sure don't want to pull
        something apart,
        >>     or buy even *more* adapters!
        >>
        >>     Thanks.
        >>     Tom M.
        >>
        >>
        >>     On Tue, Apr 9, 2019 at 10:03 AM Kurt McCullum
        <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
        >>     <mailto:[email protected]
        <mailto:[email protected]>>> wrote:
        >>
        >>
        >>         What you are describing happens to me when the
        either the
        >>         CTS/RTS or DTR/DSR wires in your cable are crossed.
        >>
        >>         Example. The CTS pin listens (checks for voltage)
        to the RTS
        >>         pin on the other end. If you have a cable where
        RTS goes
        >>         straight to RTS and CTS going straight to CTS,
        then you have
        >>         two ends of the cable both feeding voltage to the
        same wire.
        >>         This causes the screen to go dim. the DTR/DSR
        pins can
        >>         produce the same issue.
        >>
        >>         Kurt
        >>
        >>         On Tue, Apr 9, 2019, at 5:33 AM, Thomas Morehouse
        wrote:
        >>>         Now that I've got my usb/serial link working
        (M102 to Dell
        >>>         laptop), I notice the 102's screen get quite dim
        when the
        >>>         cable is in the 102's 25 pin serial port.
        >>>
        >>>         Doesn't need to be connected to the Dell. Just
        when you plug
        >>>         the usb/serial cable into the 102.  Unplug the
        cable, 102
        >>>         screen returns to normal visibility.
        >>>
        >>>         Something to worry about? or just live with it? 
        I wouldn't
        >>>         have thought the usb/serial cable chip would put
        such a
        >>>         drain on the system. Happens with battery power,
        or even
        >>>         with external 6 volt poweer.
        >>>
        >>>         Thanks.
        >>>         Tom M.
        >>>
        >>
        >




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