David Neville wrote:
> Thanks heaps Andrew Im doing the conversion
>
> Regards
> Dave
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Andrew Schultz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 9:32 PM
> Subject: Re: Commodore brakes on 1600
>
> > Check out the Adelaide 1600 club website for full details.
> > www.adelaide.net.au/~lanzac/
> >
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Andrew Schultz
> >
> >
> >
>
David,
A couple of suggestions I would like to offer;-
I wouldn't bother with the shims to offset the calliper inboard. Instead
I would machine the back of the hub to move the disc outboard. (you
won't be able to use the hub again for stock discs, but then will you
aver want to any way?) Just be careful when bolting the new disc to the
hub, that the bolts don't bottom out in the holes, NOT GOOD!! Obviously
checking calliper to rim clearance is also par for the course.
By doing things this way, you gain a couple of millimetres clearance
between disc and lower control arm. Not much but every little bit helps.
(this clearance issue is mentioned on the web site). You also reduce
your part count and the need to tack weld the shims to the struts.
One other thing that the web site leaves out is the fact that there are
2 different 180B struts available, (listers please confirm). You want to
get yourself the later model strut with beefier stub axles. This doesn't
change any measurements or the way you do the mods. It's just gives you
stronger/more reliable wheel bearings. Which is good isn't it?
Can someone on the list describe the difference between types of 180B
struts and maybe even provide pics, so we can all benefit? I can't
remember exactly what the differences are.
Hope this helps you David.
--
Regards,
Andrew
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