Terry,
Ah, glad I asked now. That saves me some messing about. Pics would be very
usefull too. If I'm cutting the pin holders out would it be an idea to
reposition them for more neg camber at the same time? I'm gonna go with the
S12 struts so I need to either lenghten the bottom arms or alter the strut
tops to get the camber right. I have a say bar from a 910 sedan which is
very thick but looks a little wide at the ends. The arms are a little longer
too and I reckon if I cut a bit off the ends and get it flattened and
drilled again it will fit. But do you think this will make it too stiff? If
so I'll pull the one off my Gazelle and try it.
So no sump mods or tunnel bashing then? Sounds good to me. I spent over 5
hours making a sump to get a Rover V8 in a 280C ...never again :-)
Cheers,
Eddie
England
510, KP710, B10, KB110,
B110, B120, J710, H230,
G620, P330, SRL311, C30,
VBF10, E10, S12
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
pics at www.ratdat.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 3:00 AM
Subject: Re: FJ mounts
> Hey Eddie,
> Another FJ20turbo 510 conceived, great move.
>
> Fabricating the FJ20 fitting kit is pretty easy. The cross member is just
> reversed and the only thing that is trimmed is the lip where the stock
sway bar
> fit under. The pedestals aren't touched at all. The lower control arm pin
> holders have to be reversed and re-welded back in as they are tapered
front to
> back. You can make up the engine mounts pretty easily as well that use the
> rubbers from the origianal 510 mount, i will send you some up close and
> personal pics when i can to give you an idea on the design that works. The
sway
> bar that you need is from the Bluebird 910 SSS-T (Z18) but the Gazelle S12
bar
> is pretty close too, you might be lucky but we can send you the correct
one
> over from Oz if you get stuck.
>
> regards
> Terry
> > Hey list,
> >
> > My FJ turbo is now going into my 510 due to wories about the strength of
my
> > 710SSS body shell because it's pillarless. I think shipping a modified
> > crossmember will be $$$$ so I figure on fabricating everything myself.
My
> > question is... with regard to fabricating the mounts, should I cut the
old
> > mount pedestals off the crossmember before I bolt it back on or can I
modify
> > the existing mounts after I fit it? Also is there any tunnel bashing to
be
> > done? Just saves me lowering the lump in and having to lift it out again
> > just to get busy with the hammer :-) Hopefully it will be in by next
weekend
> > :-) ...although a way off running as I haven't got the turbo fixed yet
:-(
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Eddie
> > England
> > 510, KP710, B10, KB110,
> > B110, B120, J710, H230,
> > G620, P330, SRL311, C30,
> > VBF10, E10, S12
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > pics at www.ratdat.com
> > New site at www.ratdat.co.uk not finished yet though...
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> This message was sent using Dynamite Internet's Web Mail System.
> http://home.dynamite.com.au/
>
>
>
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