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Cam
increase your neg camber to 4.5, drop your toe out
to what the rear is(SHHH) and leave the 5mm caster
Peter
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 3:25
PM
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment
Settings
I'm running 3deg neg camber, 2mm toe out, 5deg positive caster
on the front, you'd reckon that'd have em loaded up a bit
:))
Cam CM510 www.sprite.com.au/cm510 -----
Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent:
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 3:12 PM Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment
Settings
> It must be due to the almost zero castor angle, zero
toe, and the old-fashioned steering box. > > In a Datsun, the
tyres just roll along, basically just stopping the nose from dragging along
the ground until you come to a corner. > > A bit of toe-out, or
even toe-in, should pre-load the tyres so that they can go up to full grip
levels quickly. > > It is strange that all Datsuns have zero toe.
All the other cars that I've seen have some toe-in or out. > Must
give it a try soon... > > Nick > > > > From:
"Andrew Greenbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >
> Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings > > Date: 19/02/2002
14:13:28 > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >
> > > Hi Guys, > > > > No its not imaginary -
there is a dynamic lag involved between > > steering wheel angle and
the generation of tyre force which is > > inherent (but can be made
worse through design, tyre choice, > > suspension settings, steering
etc). > > > > eg a tyre which generates its peak force at a
lower slip angle > > "speeds up" steering, because it takes less time
for it to get to its > > maximum force (the downside is such a tyre
may also "let go" > > more quickly also). It is for these reasons
that handling gets > > sharper when adding performance tyres, as
compared to borrowing > > your nan's 165/75 R13's. >
> > > Andrew > > > > > hey nick, > >
> > > > you're exactly right...I thought I was dreaming that
'hook up' time. It's > > > as if cause the front tyre is so
cambered, it sort of nearly under-steers > > > until you get
enough body roll to kick in the full tyre contact. > > > >
> > > > > Cam > > > CM510 > > > www.sprite.com.au/cm510 > >
> ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 12:48 PM > > > Subject:
Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings > > > > > > >
> > > My car also corners very well for what it is. > > >
> > > > > One thing that interests me at the moment is the
time taken from steering > > > input to steering effect. My car
takes a significant time to 'hook up' at > > > the front even
with a stiff front sway bar. > > > > Cars with 'good handling'
have very small times between steering input and > > >
effect. > > > > I am considering a bit of toe-out at the front
to make the car more > > > 'twitchy' and hook up faster. >
> > > > > > > With the rear end of a 1600 you have to
consider the rear toe-change that > > > occurs with suspension
movement. > > > > A small amount of toe-in at the rear will
convert to toe-out on the > > > outside wheel under
cornering. > > > > This is good for a good driver, but if you
lift off and, god forbid, brake > > > hard mid-corner the rear
wheel toes back in and you get big time oversteer. > > >
> > > > > Nick > > > > Live-Axle
Stanza > > > > > > > > > > From: "cm510"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >
> > > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings > >
> > > Date: 19/02/2002 12:28:54 > > > > > To:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >
> > > > > > > > > That makes sense. > >
> > > > > > > > I'll have to take some measurements
and check it tonight. The car is > > > > > handling
very well on the front....to the point where you turn in that > >
> hard > > > > > that the front goes through the corner
and the rear will suddenly break > > > away > > >
> > (over-steer) > > > > > > > > > >
No doubt sway bar and spring/shocks on the rear will affect this as >
> > well. > > > > > > > > > >
Cam > > > > > CM510 > > > > > www.sprite.com.au/cm510 > >
> > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > From:
"Andrew Greenbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >
> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 12:05 PM > >
> > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi
Cam, > > > > > > > > > > > > I cant
help with any specific rear toe settings, but rear toe-in is > >
> > > > more stable than rear toe-out, as the rear wheels provide
a > > > > > > stabilising moment trying to turn the car
towards the outside of the > > > > > > corner (and so
understeer if taken too far) > > > > > > > >
> > > > Andrew > > > > > > > > >
> > > > Hi Guys, > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > Looking for some pointers with the rear wheel
alignment settings for > > > a > > > > > >
> 1600....more specifically the toe setting. > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > With a slotted rear
crossmember, I can get excellent adjustment of > > >
both > > > > > > > camber and toe. > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Camber, I'm going to
run between Zero and neg .5 deg. > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > But toe ?? > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Am I correct in saying some toe in
on the rear will give extra > > > > > stabilaty? >
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
Cam > > > > > > > CM510 > > > > >
> > www.sprite.com.au/cm510 > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
This message was sent through MyMail http://www.mymail.com.au > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > This message was sent through
MyMail http://www.mymail.com.au > > >
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