Cam
increase your neg camber to 4.5, drop your toe out to what the rear is(SHHH) and leave the 5mm caster
 
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: cm510
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings

I'm running 3deg neg camber, 2mm toe out, 5deg positive caster on the front,
you'd reckon that'd have em loaded up a bit :))

Cam
CM510
www.sprite.com.au/cm510
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings


> It must be due to the almost zero castor angle, zero toe, and the
old-fashioned steering box.
>
> In a Datsun, the tyres just roll along, basically just stopping the nose
from dragging along the ground until you come to a corner.
>
> A bit of toe-out, or even toe-in, should pre-load the tyres so that they
can go up to full grip levels quickly.
>
> It is strange that all Datsuns have zero toe. All the other cars that I've
seen have some toe-in or out.
> Must give it a try soon...
>
> Nick
> >
> > From: "Andrew Greenbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings
> > Date: 19/02/2002 14:13:28
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > Hi Guys,
> >
> > No its not imaginary - there is a dynamic lag involved between
> > steering wheel angle and the generation of tyre force which is
> > inherent (but can be made worse through design, tyre choice,
> > suspension settings, steering etc).
> >
> > eg a tyre which generates its peak force at a lower slip angle
> > "speeds up" steering, because it takes less time for it to get to its
> > maximum force (the downside is such a tyre may also "let go"
> > more quickly also). It is for these reasons that handling gets
> > sharper when adding performance tyres, as compared to borrowing
> > your nan's 165/75 R13's.
> >
> > Andrew
> >
> > > hey nick,
> > >
> > > you're exactly right...I thought I was dreaming that 'hook up' time.
It's
> > > as if cause the front tyre is so cambered, it sort of nearly
under-steers
> > > until you get enough body roll to kick in the full tyre contact.
> > >
> > >
> > > Cam
> > > CM510
> > > www.sprite.com.au/cm510
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 12:48 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings
> > >
> > >
> > > > My car also corners very well for what it is.
> > > >
> > > > One thing that interests me at the moment is the time taken from
steering
> > > input to steering effect. My car takes a significant time to 'hook up'
at
> > > the front even with a stiff front sway bar.
> > > > Cars with 'good handling' have very small times between steering
input and
> > > effect.
> > > > I am considering a bit of toe-out at the front to make the car more
> > > 'twitchy' and hook up faster.
> > > >
> > > > With the rear end of a 1600 you have to consider the rear toe-change
that
> > > occurs with suspension movement.
> > > > A small amount of toe-in at the rear will convert to toe-out on the
> > > outside wheel under cornering.
> > > > This is good for a good driver, but if you lift off and, god forbid,
brake
> > > hard mid-corner the rear wheel toes back in and you get big time
oversteer.
> > > >
> > > > Nick
> > > > Live-Axle Stanza
> > > > >
> > > > > From: "cm510" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings
> > > > > Date: 19/02/2002 12:28:54
> > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > >
> > > > > That makes sense.
> > > > >
> > > > > I'll have to take some measurements and check it tonight.  The car
is
> > > > > handling very well on the front....to the point where you turn in
that
> > > hard
> > > > > that the front goes through the corner and the rear will suddenly
break
> > > away
> > > > > (over-steer)
> > > > >
> > > > > No doubt sway bar and spring/shocks on the rear will affect this
as
> > > well.
> > > > >
> > > > > Cam
> > > > > CM510
> > > > > www.sprite.com.au/cm510
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Andrew Greenbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 12:05 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Cam,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I cant help with any specific rear toe settings, but rear toe-in
is
> > > > > > more stable than rear toe-out, as the rear wheels provide a
> > > > > > stabilising moment trying to turn the car towards the outside of
the
> > > > > > corner (and so understeer if taken too far)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Andrew
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hi Guys,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Looking for some pointers with the rear wheel alignment
settings for
> > > a
> > > > > > > 1600....more specifically the toe setting.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > With a slotted rear crossmember, I can get excellent
adjustment of
> > > both
> > > > > > > camber and toe.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Camber, I'm going to run between Zero and neg .5 deg.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > But toe ??
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Am I correct in saying some toe in on the rear will give extra
> > > > > stabilaty?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Cam
> > > > > > > CM510
> > > > > > > www.sprite.com.au/cm510
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > This message was sent through MyMail http://www.mymail.com.au
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
> This message was sent through MyMail http://www.mymail.com.au
>
>
>

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