Caster is also what you need to increase cornering force on the front. It comes at the expense of heavier steering and strongrer self centering - particularly if you are running widies that are offset too much. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Alford" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, 19 February 2002 17:02 PM Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings
> Cam, > > I'm running similar front settings. 3.5 - 4 degress neg camber, 5.75 degrees > castor, and zero toe. The rear is 1 degree neg with 1mm toe out. This has > been a good combination so far, but still likes to push a little in the > front (if pushed too hard). The current plan is to get another degree of > camber in the front and see what happens. > > Cheers, > > Mark. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "cm510" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 3:25 PM > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings > > > > I'm running 3deg neg camber, 2mm toe out, 5deg positive caster on the > front, > > you'd reckon that'd have em loaded up a bit :)) > > > > Cam > > CM510 > > www.sprite.com.au/cm510 > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 3:12 PM > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings > > > > > > > It must be due to the almost zero castor angle, zero toe, and the > > old-fashioned steering box. > > > > > > In a Datsun, the tyres just roll along, basically just stopping the nose > > from dragging along the ground until you come to a corner. > > > > > > A bit of toe-out, or even toe-in, should pre-load the tyres so that they > > can go up to full grip levels quickly. > > > > > > It is strange that all Datsuns have zero toe. All the other cars that > I've > > seen have some toe-in or out. > > > Must give it a try soon... > > > > > > Nick > > > > > > > > From: "Andrew Greenbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings > > > > Date: 19/02/2002 14:13:28 > > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > Hi Guys, > > > > > > > > No its not imaginary - there is a dynamic lag involved between > > > > steering wheel angle and the generation of tyre force which is > > > > inherent (but can be made worse through design, tyre choice, > > > > suspension settings, steering etc). > > > > > > > > eg a tyre which generates its peak force at a lower slip angle > > > > "speeds up" steering, because it takes less time for it to get to its > > > > maximum force (the downside is such a tyre may also "let go" > > > > more quickly also). It is for these reasons that handling gets > > > > sharper when adding performance tyres, as compared to borrowing > > > > your nan's 165/75 R13's. > > > > > > > > Andrew > > > > > > > > > hey nick, > > > > > > > > > > you're exactly right...I thought I was dreaming that 'hook up' time. > > It's > > > > > as if cause the front tyre is so cambered, it sort of nearly > > under-steers > > > > > until you get enough body roll to kick in the full tyre contact. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Cam > > > > > CM510 > > > > > www.sprite.com.au/cm510 > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 12:48 PM > > > > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > My car also corners very well for what it is. > > > > > > > > > > > > One thing that interests me at the moment is the time taken from > > steering > > > > > input to steering effect. My car takes a significant time to 'hook > up' > > at > > > > > the front even with a stiff front sway bar. > > > > > > Cars with 'good handling' have very small times between steering > > input and > > > > > effect. > > > > > > I am considering a bit of toe-out at the front to make the car > more > > > > > 'twitchy' and hook up faster. > > > > > > > > > > > > With the rear end of a 1600 you have to consider the rear > toe-change > > that > > > > > occurs with suspension movement. > > > > > > A small amount of toe-in at the rear will convert to toe-out on > the > > > > > outside wheel under cornering. > > > > > > This is good for a good driver, but if you lift off and, god > forbid, > > brake > > > > > hard mid-corner the rear wheel toes back in and you get big time > > oversteer. > > > > > > > > > > > > Nick > > > > > > Live-Axle Stanza > > > > > > > > > > > > > > From: "cm510" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings > > > > > > > Date: 19/02/2002 12:28:54 > > > > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > That makes sense. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll have to take some measurements and check it tonight. The > car > > is > > > > > > > handling very well on the front....to the point where you turn > in > > that > > > > > hard > > > > > > > that the front goes through the corner and the rear will > suddenly > > break > > > > > away > > > > > > > (over-steer) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > No doubt sway bar and spring/shocks on the rear will affect this > > as > > > > > well. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Cam > > > > > > > CM510 > > > > > > > www.sprite.com.au/cm510 > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > > > From: "Andrew Greenbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 12:05 PM > > > > > > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Alignment Settings > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Cam, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I cant help with any specific rear toe settings, but rear > toe-in > > is > > > > > > > > more stable than rear toe-out, as the rear wheels provide a > > > > > > > > stabilising moment trying to turn the car towards the outside > of > > the > > > > > > > > corner (and so understeer if taken too far) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Andrew > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Guys, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Looking for some pointers with the rear wheel alignment > > settings for > > > > > a > > > > > > > > > 1600....more specifically the toe setting. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > With a slotted rear crossmember, I can get excellent > > adjustment of > > > > > both > > > > > > > > > camber and toe. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Camber, I'm going to run between Zero and neg .5 deg. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > But toe ?? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Am I correct in saying some toe in on the rear will give > extra > > > > > > > stabilaty? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Cam > > > > > > > > > CM510 > > > > > > > > > www.sprite.com.au/cm510 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > This message was sent through MyMail http://www.mymail.com.au > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > This message was sent through MyMail http://www.mymail.com.au > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
