New brake lines suggest checking all connections for leaks as suggested
previously. My son fitted a new line from his M/C, crossed a thread and had
the same drama. He thought the fitting was tightened properly, but closer
inspection, under pressure showed it to be leaking.
I dont suggest undoing all connections. Eliminate the other things (M/C and
Power Booster) first, if they are old fittings. No loss of fluid points to
the booster.
Keep at it and let us know what you find.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
Richard,
Thanks for taking the time to type all of that. That's exactly how i've
bled the system - foot in nip, foot out, loosen, foot in nip, etc... I've
changed brakes on all my cars previously and never had this problem. Mind
you - the datto has new tubing throughout so air could quite possibly be
stuck in there? Although I have put a number of bottles through the system
now.
I actually haven't checked the master cylinder properly yet - so i'll
check that one today, but all the other nipples are flowing fluid with no
bubbles. This is the reason I thought there maybe a leak - power has to be
lost somewhere and then on the flipside if there was a leak then the fluid
levels would drop and guess what - they haven't ;)
I'll bet $100 on it being a stupid mistake of mine - just a matter of
finding it.
Mark
Thanks i'll check the booster as you've mentioned. With re to the M/C
leaking - as I said above, I would have thought that the fluid levels
would drop with a leak and that's just not happening...
thanks for the suggestions guys, hopefully I have some good news this
arvo.
cheers,
Adam
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 10:49 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
OK, back to basics.
1 Are you bleeding it correctly?
Dont allow pumped fluid to be drawn back when lifting the brake pedal.
Fit a plastic tube to the bleed nipple. Run the tube to a container of
brake fluid. Ensure the end of the tube is emersed in brake fluid when
pumping. Nip off the bleeder, before lifting the pedal. This takes two
people one to operate the bleed nipple and one to pump the pedal.
2 Does fluid flow cleanly (no air bubbles) from the master cylinder
bleeder or outlet pipe?
If not fix it. (Bleed it or repair it)
If yes,
3 Does fluid flow cleanly from each of the four wheel cylinders, after
being bled in the order FR/FL/RR/RL?
If no, find out why.
If yes,
After locking all bleeders hold down the brake pedal and check for leaks
thoughout all brake lines and flexible hoses - particularly check for
cracks in hoses and fluid leaks at pipe connections. These can be hard
to detect if the component fitting is wet with fluid.
3 If the fluid is flowing air free through the system, with no leaks,
check the operation of the Power Booster. Probably a job for a
professional Brake Mechanic.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
Richard & Matt,
Thanks - that's the way I have it setup atm. I still can't find the
problem - brakes have zero power - infact I jacked up the back took off
the wheels, started up the motor and put it in gear. I just let the
engines idle spin the discs. I jump on the brakes and it doesn't seem to
have much clamping force. I'd expect it to stall the engine straight
away - but i had to really stomp on the brakes to get that to happen.
Bit lost with this problem. I can't find any leaks, fluid is getting to
all calipers as I have bled them all and no air is coming out. I think
i'm going to bleed the brakes with a couple of bottles of fluid just to
be sure.
Are there any other reasons that may cause zero power in the brake
system? The booster has kicked the bucket perhaps? Is there anyway of
checking the booster is working correctly?
cheers,
Adam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
I would recommend Nipple up, so air bleeds out first. Nipple down will
leave the air trapped inside while fluid runs out.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: Brake Problem
Ok - sorry if there was areply to this already, I had a problem with
my email and it's deleted all of the last 3 or 4 days worth of emails
:\
I just checked my mastercylinder and it has 7/8 clearly stamped on the
side of it. So i'm guessing maybe a leak? I'm yet to find a leak -
everything seems pretty good and the brakes were bled with zero
bubbles coming out. Also, i'm still a little concerned about the front
brakes - which side is which??? ie nipple up top or bottom - I
remember on a mates 180sx we put on new brakes and forgot which was L
and R and ended up putting them on the wrong sides they didn't work at
all but swap them over and problem solved. Would this be the case with
the VL Turbo calipers too?
cheers,
Adam
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