heh - thanks Terry - perhaps ozdat mailing list could create a book 'how not to go about building a car based on the true idiotic mistakes of Adam J'

i'd be buying it and making note of what not to do

----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 7:43 PM
Subject: RE: Brake Problem


Good to read that you're makin' some progress - had us worried there for a
while.

Terry

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Adam Jackson
Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2006 7:07 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Brake Problem


Fixed the brake problem.

Adjusted the pedal depth - bolt from the booster and it seems with the
longer pedal the point where the brakes engage is higher and now there is
some bite - just need a little more fine tuning.

THanks to all for the help.

cheers,
Adam

----- Original Message -----
From: "The Cleary's" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: Brake Problem


> FR/FL/RR/RL?
> i was told that you bled the furthest first, ie RL, then RR then FL
> then
> FR
> last,
> but with a dual system it probably doesn;t really matter if it's front
or
> rear first?
>
> u lost me with this
> foot in nip, foot out, loosen, foot in nip, etc
>
> pump the pedal, hold the pedal down then loosen the bleed nipple,
> but before the pedal hits the floor, tighten the bleen nipple, then
> pump the pedal
a
> couple of times and repeat.
> is this what you mean??
> r u in Brisbane?
> i found my receipt for all my brake bits, my MC is a JB1289
>
> Heath
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 10:21 AM
> Subject: Re: Brake Problem
>
>
>> Richard,
>>
>> Thanks for taking the time to type all of that. That's exactly how
>> i've
> bled
>> the system - foot in nip, foot out, loosen, foot in nip, etc...
>> I've
> changed
>> brakes on all my cars previously and never had this problem. Mind
>> you -
> the
>> datto has new tubing throughout so air could quite possibly be
>> stuck
>> in
>> there? Although I have put a number of bottles through the system >> now.
>>
>> I actually haven't checked the master cylinder properly yet - so
>> i'll
> check
>> that one today, but all the other nipples are flowing fluid with
>> no
> bubbles.
>> This is the reason I thought there maybe a leak - power has to be
>> lost somewhere and then on the flipside if there was a leak then
>> the fluid
> levels
>> would drop and guess what - they haven't ;)
>>
>> I'll bet $100 on it being a stupid mistake of mine - just a matter
>> of finding it.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> Thanks i'll check the booster as you've mentioned. With re to the
>> M/C leaking - as I said above, I would have thought that the fluid
>> levels
> would
>> drop with a leak and that's just not happening...
>>
>> thanks for the suggestions guys, hopefully I have some good news
>> this
> arvo.
>>
>> cheers,
>> Adam
>> .
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 10:49 PM
>> Subject: Re: Brake Problem
>>
>>
>> > OK, back to basics.
>> > 1  Are you bleeding it correctly?
>> > Dont allow pumped fluid to be drawn back when lifting the brake
pedal.
>> > Fit a plastic tube to the bleed nipple.  Run the tube to a
>> > container
of
>> > brake fluid.  Ensure the end of the tube is emersed in brake
>> > fluid
when
>> > pumping. Nip off the bleeder, before lifting the pedal.  This
>> > takes
two
>> > people one to operate the bleed nipple and one to pump the
>> > pedal.
>> >
>> > 2  Does fluid flow cleanly (no air bubbles) from the master
>> > cylinder bleeder or outlet pipe? If not fix it. (Bleed it or
>> > repair it) If yes,
>> > 3 Does fluid flow cleanly from each of the four wheel cylinders,
after
>> > being bled in the order FR/FL/RR/RL?
>> > If no, find out why.
>> > If yes,
>> > After locking all bleeders hold down the brake pedal and check
>> > for leaks thoughout all brake lines and flexible hoses -
>> > particularly check for
>> > cracks in hoses and fluid leaks at pipe connections.  These can be
hard
> to
>> > detect if the component fitting is wet with fluid.
>> > 3 If the fluid is flowing air free through the system, with no
>> > leaks,
>> > check the operation of the Power Booster. Probably a job for a
>> > professional Brake Mechanic.
>> >
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> > To: <[email protected]>
>> > Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 9:13 PM
>> > Subject: Re: Brake Problem
>> >
>> >
>> >> Richard & Matt,
>> >>
>> >> Thanks - that's the way I have it setup atm. I still can't find
>> >> the problem - brakes have zero power - infact I jacked up the
>> >> back took off the wheels, started up the motor and put it in
>> >> gear. I just let the engines idle spin the discs. I jump on the
>> >> brakes and it doesn't
seem
> to
>> >> have much clamping force. I'd expect it to stall the engine
>> >> straight
>> >> away - but i had to really stomp on the brakes to get that to
happen.
>> >>
>> >> Bit lost with this problem. I can't find any leaks, fluid is
>> >> getting
>> >> to
>> >> all calipers as I have bled them all and no air is coming out. I
think
>> >> i'm going to bleed the brakes with a couple of bottles of fluid
>> >> just
>> >> to
>> >> be sure.
>> >>
>> >> Are there any other reasons that may cause zero power in the
>> >> brake system? The booster has kicked the bucket perhaps? Is
>> >> there anyway
of
>> >> checking the booster is working correctly?
>> >>
>> >> cheers,
>> >> Adam
>> >>
>> >> ----- Original Message -----
>> >> From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >> To: <[email protected]>
>> >> Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 8:35 PM
>> >> Subject: Re: Brake Problem
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>>I would recommend Nipple up, so air bleeds out first.  Nipple
>> >>>down will leave the air trapped inside while fluid runs out.
>> >>> ----- Original Message -----
>> >>> From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >>> To: <[email protected]>
>> >>> Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 9:45 AM
>> >>> Subject: Re: Brake Problem
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>> Ok - sorry if there was areply to this already, I had a
>> >>>> problem
with
> my
>> >>>> email and it's deleted all of the last 3 or 4 days worth of
>> >>>> emails
>> >>>> :\
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I just checked my mastercylinder and it has 7/8 clearly
>> >>>> stamped
>> >>>> on
> the
>> >>>> side of it. So i'm guessing maybe a leak? I'm yet to find a
>> >>>> leak -
>> >>>> everything seems pretty good and the brakes were bled with zero
> bubbles
>> >>>> coming out. Also, i'm still a little concerned about the
>> >>>> front
> brakes -
>> >>>> which side is which??? ie nipple up top or bottom - I
>> >>>> remember on
a
>> >>>> mates 180sx we put on new brakes and forgot which was L and R
>> >>>> and
> ended
>> >>>> up putting them on the wrong sides they didn't work at all
>> >>>> but
swap
>> >>>> them over and problem solved. Would this be the case with the
>> >>>> VL
> Turbo
>> >>>> calipers too?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> cheers,
>> >>>> Adam
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> --
>> >>>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> >>>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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>> >>>> Date: 4/07/2006
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
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>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
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>> >>
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>> >>
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