I'm confident the disk is in the right way - it'd only go in on way. The pivot 
ball was replaced at the same time as the clutch as a precaution and I've 
checked the fork is secure today (had a pivot ball fail before and the fork was 
loose). There is a clonk/clank on pedal depression/release though and I just 
can't imagine what is causing it??
 
Steve.
www.slowmx5.com

----- Original Message ----
From: Larry Alster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Steve Willington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Ray Ayala <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
[email protected]
Sent: Saturday, 29 March, 2008 10:31:03 PM
Subject: RE: Clutch problems

  
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The other things could be disk in backwards or an issue with the
pivot ball and fork.
   
 Most likely it’s in the hydraulics.
   
   
   
 Larry
 
White Knight      1991 Crystal White   #99CSP
Silver Bullet        1992Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo
Honey B            1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2L  JR Supercharger
Whooosh           2004Titanium Mazdaspeed MX-5
 
LowCountry Miata  http://www.lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074
 
  
 From:[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Steve Willington
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 3:54 PM
To: Ray Ayala; [email protected]
Subject: Re: Clutch problems
 

  
 I sorta guessed that and is the reason I went with theshorter new rod. Still 
was hoping it might be a quick fix to give me morepeddle travel.

How much adjustment is there in the MX5 hydraulic system? How will I know whenI 
have adjusted it too far?

BTW could there be anything mechanically wrong to give me these issues? 
PerhapsI am concentrating on the hydraulic system and should be looking 
elsewhere?
  
 
Steve.
www.slowmx5.com
   
 ----- Original Message ----
From: Ray Ayala <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Steve Willington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, 29 March, 2008 5:15:24 PM
Subject: Re: Clutch problems

 
 Push
rod length is immaterial unless there is a gap at the end of the push rod
when at rest.  A slightly smaller bore in the slave or a slightly
larger bore in the master will improve the situation.  Note that new
cylinders tend to have a smaller bore and rebuilt ones tend to have a larger
bore.  You might want to take your master cylinder to a shop to have the
bore enlarged but if you over-do it the slave piston may extend too much and
possibly even eject from its bore.
 
-----
Original Message ----- 
 
From: Steve Willington 
 
To: [email protected] 
 
Sent: Saturday, March 29,
2008 7:10 AM
 
Subject: Clutch problems
 
  
 
All,

Looking for ideas on a clutch problem I'm having. I installed a new 
clutchassembly and flywheel a wheel a few months back. Initially it would 
notdisengage properly at all but after breaking it in it got a lot better - but 
itstill dis-engages just off the floor (lower than my ACT xtreme). Just 
recentlyit has occasionally refused to let me put the car into gear at all, 
especiallywhen cold. It also seems to get a little worse the longer the clutch 
is down(although it bits practically on the floor so any change is noticeable).

I changed the slave cylinder today to see if this would help - and it has 
madeno difference, if anything, made things a little worse. On installing I 
noticedthat the new slave cylinder 'push rod' is a little shorter than the 
original,by about 3 or 4mm (i.e. the distance between contacting the slave 
cylinders pistonand the point the rod contacts the clutch release fork). Would 
installing theslightly longer rod give me more peddle travel/adjustment?

Would replacing the master cylinder help at all? Anything else I can try? 
Thepeddle has been adjusted as far as it can be.
  
 
Steve.
www.slowmx5.com 
   
 

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