Thanks Owen. Excellent stuff as usual.

 

TC

David.

 

  _____  

From: Owen Jenkins [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: 02 July 2012 18:03
To: mogtalk2
Subject: Re: [mogtalk2] chassis at G.E.E.

 

Writing as one who teaches materials and corrosion science, these are my
thoughts.

 

1. Powder coating is fine until it gets damaged, when crevice corrosion can
occur underneath it. Once it does, you have to get it all off, grit blast
the rusted chassis and start again. Looks nice and lets you clean the
chassis, thus suited to concours types.

 

2. Galvanising works. Galvanising with Waxoyl on top works even better at
resisting corrosion. This is my preferred option and what my +8 has. By this
means you have three barriers protecting the chassis: (1) the Waxoyl, which
is easily replenished, (2) the passive oxide film on the zinc galvanising
and (3) the zinc acting as a sacrificial anode to protect the chassis
cathodically.

 

3. Do not expect to repair a galvanised chassis. Two problems: appallingly
noxious welding fumes and possibly liquid metal embrittlement of the steel
by molten zinc, if the steel gets too hot. A bent galvanised chassis is
scrap. Been there. That's what insurance is for.

 

4. If you are given to doing patch-welding of things, go for an uncoated
chassis and weld in new bits when it rusts. The thought of this  makes me
shudder.

 

5. Have an uncoated chassis, make sure that it is grit blasted, etch-primed
and finished with high-build epoxy. This works well on subsea equipment
designed to stay on the bottom of the North Sea for decades. Mind you, they
have a cathodic protection system, too.

 

6. Have a traditional, steel chassis,  grit blasted and painted, and keep it
well Waxoyled, with annual top-ups. This is what happens on my 4/4. This
also works.

 

I suspect GEE don't like galvanised chassis because they are not
economically reparable and getting them galvanised is a pain for them, as
they will have to subcontract the work; not because of any inherent
advantage to you, the punter (unless you make a habit of bending chassis).
This is my guess, as an ageing and cynical freelance engineer who has bent a
chassis but hopes not to repeat the exercise.

 

Cheers,

Owen.

 

 

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Richard Jones <mailto:[email protected]>  

To: mogtalk2 <mailto:[email protected]>  

Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 5:23 PM

Subject: Re: [mogtalk2] chassis at G.E.E.

 



I 'm certainly not a fan of powdercoating as once the surface gets cracked
water gets under and it  bubbles - some of the surfaces on my plus 8 that
look to be powder coated like the scuttle and some suspension parts are not
good and once it goes you can only take it off and paint it. At least you
can touch up galvanizing with a cold touch up - but don't know how effective
that is. They must have a good reason for not recommending it though - did
think the chassis fitted by the factory were galvanised. Have certainly had
a galvanised climbing frame in the garden for the past 20 years and that is
stiil as good as new, if not as bright and Alko caravan chassis are all
galvanised to good effect.



Richard M800RGN+8

From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
To: mogtalk2 <[email protected]> 
Sent: Monday, 2 July 2012, 16:43
Subject: [mogtalk2] chassis at G.E.E.


Why do they not recommend galvanizing?

My 1973 4/4/4 was re-chassied 20+ years ago, and unlike the original
ungalvanized one was after about 18 years, is quite sound.
That original one had new box cross members fitted and repaired and the
rearmost one re-plated.

TC
David. 

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Fileman [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: 02 July 2012 15:44
To: mogtalk2
Subject: RE: [mogtalk2] 4/4 chassis on ebay

>> Which advert and which month's Miscellany are you referring to?

I meant the G.E.E. ad which I cannot find in the July issue. The price list
on their web site refers:
http://www.geeltd.co.uk/index.php/chassis-prices.html  - I have not used
them so cannot comment on the accuracy of this information.

Best regards

Paul
 




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