Hi just to give my 5 penenth.

Powder coating is good. Can last for years.
I know of one company that offers 15 year warranties.
However like everything its all in the prep. clean the substrate properly, ie degrease and then etch any surface corrosion with a phosphating acid. Follow with a pretreat of zinc phosphate (tricat) or one of the new silane based processes and you have twenty years. The right material will resist cracking, we use 16mm 180 degree bend back without cracking on 1.6mm material. With the correct pretreatment substrate creep is minimal, but it can happen.
Cleaning ready for powder coat is more than a rag soaked in thinners.

Next thought. What about Autophoretic (not sure about the spelling) coating just like the new three wheeler. Inside and out by dip processing.
Dave


On 02/07/12 18:03, Owen Jenkins wrote:
Writing as one who teaches materials and corrosion science, these are my thoughts. 1. Powder coating is fine until it gets damaged, when crevice corrosion can occur underneath it. Once it does, you have to get it all off, grit blast the rusted chassis and start again. Looks nice and lets you clean the chassis, thus suited to concours types. 2. Galvanising works. Galvanising with Waxoyl on top works even better at resisting corrosion. This is my preferred option and what my +8 has. By this means you have three barriers protecting the chassis: (1) the Waxoyl, which is easily replenished, (2) the passive oxide film on the zinc galvanising and (3) the zinc acting as a sacrificial anode to protect the chassis cathodically. 3. Do not expect to repair a galvanised chassis. Two problems: appallingly noxious welding fumes and possibly liquid metal embrittlement of the steel by molten zinc, if the steel gets too hot. A bent galvanised chassis is scrap. Been there. That's what insurance is for. 4. If you are given to doing patch-welding of things, go for an uncoated chassis and weld in new bits when it rusts. The thought of this makes me shudder. 5. Have an uncoated chassis, make sure that it is grit blasted, etch-primed and finished with high-build epoxy. This works well on subsea equipment designed to stay on the bottom of the North Sea for decades. Mind you, they have a cathodic protection system, too. 6. Have a traditional, steel chassis, grit blasted and painted, and keep it well Waxoyled, with annual top-ups. This is what happens on my 4/4. This also works. I suspect GEE don't like galvanised chassis because they are not economically reparable and getting them galvanised is a pain for them, as they will have to subcontract the work; not because of any inherent advantage to you, the punter (unless you make a habit of bending chassis). This is my guess, as an ageing and cynical freelance engineer who has bent a chassis but hopes not to repeat the exercise.
Cheers,
Owen.
----- Original Message -----

    *From:* Richard Jones <mailto:[email protected]>
    *To:* mogtalk2 <mailto:[email protected]>
    *Sent:* Monday, July 02, 2012 5:23 PM
    *Subject:* Re: [mogtalk2] chassis at G.E.E.

    I 'm certainly not a fan of powdercoating as once the surface gets
    cracked water gets under and it  bubbles - some of the surfaces on
    my plus 8 that look to be powder coated like the scuttle and some
    suspension parts are not good and once it goes you can only take
    it off and paint it. At least you can touch up galvanizing with a
    cold touch up - but don't know how effective that is. They must
    have a good reason for not recommending it though - did think the
    chassis fitted by the factory were galvanised. Have certainly had
    a galvanised climbing frame in the garden for the past 20 years
    and that is stiil as good as new, if not as bright and Alko
    caravan chassis are all galvanised to good effect.
    Richard M800RGN+8
    *From:* "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
    *To:* mogtalk2 <[email protected]>
    *Sent:* Monday, 2 July 2012, 16:43
    *Subject:* [mogtalk2] chassis at G.E.E.

    Why do they not recommend galvanizing?

    My 1973 4/4/4 was re-chassied 20+ years ago, and unlike the original
    ungalvanized one was after about 18 years, is quite sound.
    That original one had new box cross members fitted and repaired
    and the
    rearmost one re-plated.

    TC
    David.

    -----Original Message-----
    From: Paul Fileman [mailto:[email protected]
    <mailto:[email protected]>]
    Sent: 02 July 2012 15:44
    To: mogtalk2
    Subject: RE: [mogtalk2] 4/4 chassis on ebay

    >> Which advert and which month's Miscellany are you referring to?

    I meant the G.E.E. ad which I cannot find in the July issue. The
    price list
    on their web site refers:
    http://www.geeltd.co.uk/index.php/chassis-prices.html - I have not
    used
    them so cannot comment on the accuracy of this information.

    Best regards

    Paul





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