Could you clarify something for me? Are you saying is that a 74141
should not be used for cathode-side blanking? What about the  Russian
K155ID1, which I assume has similar specs to the 74141?

On Feb 28, 7:24 pm, David Forbes <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 2/28/12 4:48 PM, Deviantgeek wrote:
>
> > I was looking at the Supertex drivers, mainly the HV5522. Its 220v vs
> > 300v, would that still work? I am driving 6 IN-18 tubes. I was also
> > looking at the SN75468, and a few 50v drivers(TPIC6A596)which I think
> > is too low... I will be building several clocks, and I want good,
> > reliable, cheap drivers.
>
> > (this is just for the cathodes)
>
> The voltage required depends on what sort of control you plan to use,
> and how many volts you apply to the anodes. The important thing to
> remember is that if one cathode is lit, then the other cathodes don't
> need more than 50V to turn them off. That's why the 74141 works with its
> 55V Zener diode clamps on its outputs.
>
> If you want to display one or two cathodes in every tube at all times
> (no blanking, but possibly fading between numbers), then a 50V driver is
> barely sufficient. Or you can use an anode driver to blank the tube. I
> use the TD62083 in my Nixie watch, and it works fine.
>
> If you want to blank the digit with the cathode, then a 100V driver
> would be necessary and you'd need to use a power supply below 200V.
>
> If you want to blank the tube and use a >200V supply, then you need a
> higher voltage cathode driver or an anode blanking circuit.
>
> I think most of the Supertex parts want 12V on their signal lines, so
> they are not very easy to use since normal logic uses 5V levels.
>
> --
> David Forbes, Tucson AZ

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