I will be building 2 clocks in the near future, and putting board
space together and all, the HV5522 are better for me. They are the
same chip as the HV5530, and a little cheaper. From what I understand
from the datasheet, I can give them ~12v and 5v logic and they should
work fine. This seems to be how Jeff uses them in his clocks.
Thanks!

On Mar 1, 10:37 am, "Tidak Ada" <offl...@zeelandnet.nl> wrote:
> Me is said that the Russian K155XXx series has an aberrant (metric) pitch of
> 2,5mm instead of 0.1" (2,54mm) You have to consider that in your lay-out.
>
> Btw., I have here a condensed pdf of the K155XXx series datasheets (not as
> extended as Western ones).
>
> eric
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
>
> Behalf Of Adam Jacobs
> Sent: donderdag 1 maart 2012 16:06
> To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Alternative to MPSA42 for direct drive clocks.
>
> The 74141 or K155ID1 will both work fine for cathode side blanking, provided
> that your HV supply is a normal value (180vdc). If you are using something
> very high, like 250v, then you're going to start running into the problem
> that the 74141/K155ID1 are not able to extinguish the nixie. FYI, the
> K155ID1 has somewhat different voltage characteristics than the 74141. I
> understand that the 74141 can sink something like 60v, where the K155ID1 can
> sink 100v.
> I think that most nixies extinguish at about 135vdc or so.
>
> -Adam
>
> On 3/1/2012 6:52 AM, Ron Schuster wrote:
> > Could you clarify something for me? Are you saying is that a 74141
> > should not be used for cathode-side blanking? What about the  Russian
> > K155ID1, which I assume has similar specs to the 74141?
>
> > On Feb 28, 7:24 pm, David Forbes<dfor...@dakotacom.net>  wrote:
> >> On 2/28/12 4:48 PM, Deviantgeek wrote:
>
> >>> I was looking at the Supertex drivers, mainly the HV5522. Its 220v vs
> >>> 300v, would that still work? I am driving 6 IN-18 tubes. I was also
> >>> looking at the SN75468, and a few 50v drivers(TPIC6A596)which I think
> >>> is too low... I will be building several clocks, and I want good,
> >>> reliable, cheap drivers.
> >>> (this is just for the cathodes)
> >> The voltage required depends on what sort of control you plan to use,
> >> and how many volts you apply to the anodes. The important thing to
> >> remember is that if one cathode is lit, then the other cathodes don't
> >> need more than 50V to turn them off. That's why the 74141 works with its
> >> 55V Zener diode clamps on its outputs.
>
> >> If you want to display one or two cathodes in every tube at all times
> >> (no blanking, but possibly fading between numbers), then a 50V driver is
> >> barely sufficient. Or you can use an anode driver to blank the tube. I
> >> use the TD62083 in my Nixie watch, and it works fine.
>
> >> If you want to blank the digit with the cathode, then a 100V driver
> >> would be necessary and you'd need to use a power supply below 200V.
>
> >> If you want to blank the tube and use a>200V supply, then you need a
> >> higher voltage cathode driver or an anode blanking circuit.
>
> >> I think most of the Supertex parts want 12V on their signal lines, so
> >> they are not very easy to use since normal logic uses 5V levels.
>
> >> --
> >> David Forbes, Tucson AZ
>
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