I, for one, look forward to your tirades. I have them all archived, I just know I'll need to go back to them some day.
-Kyle On Wed, Feb 25, 2009 at 12:10 AM, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > The explanation would take too long and most here are weary of my tirades. > You only need Plasti-gauge and a torque wrench plus a decent micrometer. > Install the bearing with a piece of the gauge and tighten to spec. . Remove > and measure. Recheck your work a second time. If you have access to fine > measuring instruments, I'd assemble the rod and check for ROUND ID against > the shop spec. Also mike the crank pin OD against shop spec. any > out-of-round parts MUST be replaced or failure will occur. Never re-use > piston pin C clips, and I recommend new rod bolts too. Your call on that. > > --- On *Tue, 2/24/09, ZMAN <[email protected]>* wrote: > > From: ZMAN <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Crank bearings > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > Date: Tuesday, February 24, 2009, 8:04 AM > > > Ah... so the term is "piggy-backed." Interesting. > > So you recommend the black bearing size. Any particular reason? Any > advice for matching "black" with a letter designation (a-f) on the > parts list? > > Thanks for the help! > > LZ > > > > On Feb 23, 10:16 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > > Why not split the cases ? You've come so far anyway. The trick is to > use plasti-gauge to check your work. #Hint use the black bearings. Yes there > is > a chart, use the black bearings. Make sure the crank pin is ROUND... use the > black bearings. The term is "piggy-backed" to describe that condition. > Mike the pin and rod to insure both are ROUND and not misshapen. You should do > this job only once. Short-cuts will have you doing it > twice. > > > > --- On Mon, 2/23/09, ZMAN <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: ZMAN <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Crank bearings > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > <[email protected]> > > Date: Monday, February 23, 2009, 9:48 PM > > > > I need some help with my crank bearings. I am doing a rebuild of a > > salvage motor. Let me preface my question with this: "I know that I > > SHOULD take this motor apart and check everything properly, but I am > > trying to limit my labor time on this." > > > > OK I have the oil pan, cylinder head, cylinder, and pistons all > > pulled. So I am looking at the crankcase with the con-rods moving > > freely. Well, almost. The #3 is a bit to sticky for my liking. So I > > take the rod off (you can get to it through the oil pan opening). I > > put the bearing halves back in the > opening of the con-rod and I see > > that the bearing has been warped, because is is out of round with the > > opening of the con-rod. So I want to replace the bearing, of course. > > The con-rod is marked with a 2 and D. The old bearing thickness is > > 0.056" and is marked AK16B. I am looking at my Clymer manual and it > > states that I have to cross reference these markings with markings on > > the end of the crankshaft. The result should be one of 5 bearing > > sizes, and 3 of these sizes will work for a #2 rod and they are > > called: green, brown, or black. "This is great," I said. "I > will > > just > > measure the old one and order a new one." The measurement of my old > > bearing is quite a bit less than the thicknesses listed in the book, > > so I know that it is bad. > > > > So let me boil this down to the questions that I have: > > > > 1) How do these color designations > transfer to the actual parts? There > > are 5 colors listed in the Clymer, and 6 lettered bearings in the > > parts fiche (A-F)? Does anyone have the thickness specs of the A-F > > bearings (maybe from the Honda shop manual)? > > > > 2) Is the old bearing small and warped because of excessive wear? What > > caused this, and how can I prevent it from happening again? (BTW, the > > crank journal is in very good shape) Should I be looking for a clogged > > oil passage? > > > > 3) How can I establish what size bearing to use without taking the > > case apart? I am having a hard time getting a caliper / micrometer in > > the cylinder hole to get a good read, and my best improvised measuring > > device is no match for the .0001 precision needed here. > > > > 4) Are OEM bearings sold in pairs/matching sets, or do you have to buy > > 2 for each con-rod? I was thinking about maybe trying all 3 > sizes > > rated for a #2 con-rod, and using the one that worked the best. This > > would not be fun if I have to buy 2 of each size @ $9 each. > > > > 5) OR......should I just split the cases and stop belly-aching? > > > > Thanks for the advice! > > > > ZMAN > > > > > > > > --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
