Javier,

   In metric, chain slack is 20mm - 30 mm.

John

On May 20, 10:17 am, Javier Garcia <[email protected]> wrote:
> I agree Graham. I guess to should also learn how to do the brakes anyway.
> I'll work on that once I get the main stand.
> Javier.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 10:44 AM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Javier,  I think we could solve the problem by taking your back wheel off
> > and checking and cleaning your back brakes.  They are a simple mechanism and
> > easy to fix/maintain - but you need the main stand or a jack to get the back
> > wheel off the ground.  I have one but have loaned it out so it wasn't here
> > when you were here,  Graham
>
> > On May 20, 2010, at 9:41 AM, Javier Garcia wrote:
>
> > I agree with you about the chain slack. All the adjustment I have talked
> > about was done on the side stand. I cannot tell by eye how much slack I gave
> > it (my mind still works in metric system), but I'll measure that tonight. In
> > any case, as I said, the chain noise is gone. I'm still not sure if it was a
> > combination of chain adjustment plus torque on rear axle.
> > However, this morning coming to work the rear brake start to get stuck
> > again. This is driving me crazy and I don't understand why. As I mentioned
> > in a previous email, last night I re check the rear axle by re tightening it
> > with a torque wrench at 65 lb-ft. I'm starting to think the problem is
> > inside the drum.
> > Any suggestions?
>
> > Javier.
>
> > On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 5:16 AM, jgalban <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >> A centerstand is a good idea and makes lubing easier, but you're going
> >> to want to check the chain slack with the bike on the sidestand.  The
> >> chain gets tighter as the suspension is loaded and the procedure from
> >> the manual indicates that the slack should be checked with the bike on
> >> the sidestand.   Last month my buddy adjusted his Nighthawk's chain
> >> with the bike on the centerstand, he commented that his chain sounded
> >> noisier.  The bike was on the sidestand when I checked it and the
> >> chain tension was tighter than a banjo string.
>
> >> For proper slack, just move the chain up and down at the midpoint
> >> between the sprockets.  Honda says 3/4" to 1 1/4" of play is good.  I
> >> would highly recommend the looser end of the spec.  Tight chains tend
> >> to wear much faster. Every tiime you go over a bump, the suspension
> >> compresses and the chain tightens up.  If you're already at 3/4"
> >> standing still, that's going to put a lot of stress on the chain.   My
> >> last chain I kept at the loose end of the spec and only had to adjust
> >> it 3 times in 24K miles.
>
> >> Now for the possible bad news.  My last chain still had plenty of life
> >> left on the wear indicator when I had to replace it.   The goofball
> >> that installed my last tire didn't put the wheel back on straight and
> >> the cocked angle ended up damaging some of the O-rings after a few
> >> thousand miles.   Even after I figured it out and readjusted it, it
> >> was too late.   The symptom was a lot like yours.  At first I had a
> >> mild clunking that I only felt when taking off from a stop.
> >> Eventually it got worse and began doing it at highway speed.  No
> >> amount of lubing or adjustment would make it go away, so I had to
> >> spring for a new chain and sprockets.
>
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