I agree Graham. I guess to should also learn how to do the brakes anyway.
I'll work on that once I get the main stand.
Javier.

On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 10:44 AM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:

> Javier,  I think we could solve the problem by taking your back wheel off
> and checking and cleaning your back brakes.  They are a simple mechanism and
> easy to fix/maintain - but you need the main stand or a jack to get the back
> wheel off the ground.  I have one but have loaned it out so it wasn't here
> when you were here,  Graham
>
> On May 20, 2010, at 9:41 AM, Javier Garcia wrote:
>
> I agree with you about the chain slack. All the adjustment I have talked
> about was done on the side stand. I cannot tell by eye how much slack I gave
> it (my mind still works in metric system), but I'll measure that tonight. In
> any case, as I said, the chain noise is gone. I'm still not sure if it was a
> combination of chain adjustment plus torque on rear axle.
> However, this morning coming to work the rear brake start to get stuck
> again. This is driving me crazy and I don't understand why. As I mentioned
> in a previous email, last night I re check the rear axle by re tightening it
> with a torque wrench at 65 lb-ft. I'm starting to think the problem is
> inside the drum.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Javier.
>
> On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 5:16 AM, jgalban <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> A centerstand is a good idea and makes lubing easier, but you're going
>> to want to check the chain slack with the bike on the sidestand.  The
>> chain gets tighter as the suspension is loaded and the procedure from
>> the manual indicates that the slack should be checked with the bike on
>> the sidestand.   Last month my buddy adjusted his Nighthawk's chain
>> with the bike on the centerstand, he commented that his chain sounded
>> noisier.  The bike was on the sidestand when I checked it and the
>> chain tension was tighter than a banjo string.
>>
>> For proper slack, just move the chain up and down at the midpoint
>> between the sprockets.  Honda says 3/4" to 1 1/4" of play is good.  I
>> would highly recommend the looser end of the spec.  Tight chains tend
>> to wear much faster. Every tiime you go over a bump, the suspension
>> compresses and the chain tightens up.  If you're already at 3/4"
>> standing still, that's going to put a lot of stress on the chain.   My
>> last chain I kept at the loose end of the spec and only had to adjust
>> it 3 times in 24K miles.
>>
>> Now for the possible bad news.  My last chain still had plenty of life
>> left on the wear indicator when I had to replace it.   The goofball
>> that installed my last tire didn't put the wheel back on straight and
>> the cocked angle ended up damaging some of the O-rings after a few
>> thousand miles.   Even after I figured it out and readjusted it, it
>> was too late.   The symptom was a lot like yours.  At first I had a
>> mild clunking that I only felt when taking off from a stop.
>> Eventually it got worse and began doing it at highway speed.  No
>> amount of lubing or adjustment would make it go away, so I had to
>> spring for a new chain and sprockets.
>>
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