My vote is that the tire is not square with the swing arm. Double
check that both sides of the axle are in the same position and look
down the chain to ensure the sprocket is lined up on the chain.

On 5/21/10, jgalban <[email protected]> wrote:
> Javier,
>
>    In metric, chain slack is 20mm - 30 mm.
>
> John
>
> On May 20, 10:17 am, Javier Garcia <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I agree Graham. I guess to should also learn how to do the brakes anyway.
>> I'll work on that once I get the main stand.
>> Javier.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 10:44 AM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>> > Javier,  I think we could solve the problem by taking your back wheel
>> > off
>> > and checking and cleaning your back brakes.  They are a simple mechanism
>> > and
>> > easy to fix/maintain - but you need the main stand or a jack to get the
>> > back
>> > wheel off the ground.  I have one but have loaned it out so it wasn't
>> > here
>> > when you were here,  Graham
>>
>> > On May 20, 2010, at 9:41 AM, Javier Garcia wrote:
>>
>> > I agree with you about the chain slack. All the adjustment I have talked
>> > about was done on the side stand. I cannot tell by eye how much slack I
>> > gave
>> > it (my mind still works in metric system), but I'll measure that
>> > tonight. In
>> > any case, as I said, the chain noise is gone. I'm still not sure if it
>> > was a
>> > combination of chain adjustment plus torque on rear axle.
>> > However, this morning coming to work the rear brake start to get stuck
>> > again. This is driving me crazy and I don't understand why. As I
>> > mentioned
>> > in a previous email, last night I re check the rear axle by re
>> > tightening it
>> > with a torque wrench at 65 lb-ft. I'm starting to think the problem is
>> > inside the drum.
>> > Any suggestions?
>>
>> > Javier.
>>
>> > On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 5:16 AM, jgalban <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >> A centerstand is a good idea and makes lubing easier, but you're going
>> >> to want to check the chain slack with the bike on the sidestand.  The
>> >> chain gets tighter as the suspension is loaded and the procedure from
>> >> the manual indicates that the slack should be checked with the bike on
>> >> the sidestand.   Last month my buddy adjusted his Nighthawk's chain
>> >> with the bike on the centerstand, he commented that his chain sounded
>> >> noisier.  The bike was on the sidestand when I checked it and the
>> >> chain tension was tighter than a banjo string.
>>
>> >> For proper slack, just move the chain up and down at the midpoint
>> >> between the sprockets.  Honda says 3/4" to 1 1/4" of play is good.  I
>> >> would highly recommend the looser end of the spec.  Tight chains tend
>> >> to wear much faster. Every tiime you go over a bump, the suspension
>> >> compresses and the chain tightens up.  If you're already at 3/4"
>> >> standing still, that's going to put a lot of stress on the chain.   My
>> >> last chain I kept at the loose end of the spec and only had to adjust
>> >> it 3 times in 24K miles.
>>
>> >> Now for the possible bad news.  My last chain still had plenty of life
>> >> left on the wear indicator when I had to replace it.   The goofball
>> >> that installed my last tire didn't put the wheel back on straight and
>> >> the cocked angle ended up damaging some of the O-rings after a few
>> >> thousand miles.   Even after I figured it out and readjusted it, it
>> >> was too late.   The symptom was a lot like yours.  At first I had a
>> >> mild clunking that I only felt when taking off from a stop.
>> >> Eventually it got worse and began doing it at highway speed.  No
>> >> amount of lubing or adjustment would make it go away, so I had to
>> >> spring for a new chain and sprockets.
>>
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