Well put, but you also have to take into account the reduced "fuel" cost and 
fairly simple maintanice. 

Li ion battries are a much better option, but you can start with wet cells and 
upgrade to better cells as you can afford them



---Original Message---
From: [email protected]
Sent: 2/17/2012 3:18 pm
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Hybrid Bikes (side tangent)

Well, $6k is msrp on most of the ~400cc dual sports I've found. Seems
comparable.

That said, electric and hybrid vehicles aren't universally applicable. If I
had $7.5k to spend right now, I'd buy a Brammo bike. It's perfect for my
needs, and would free me up to buy a dedicated touring bike.

Kurt
On Feb 17, 2012 12:55 PM, "Allen Thomas" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Correction, the second website that Paul listed has 100A/h batteries for
> $135 each so that lowers the  battery cost down to $4000. IMHO $6000 for an
> ev motorcycle that only has the performance of roughly a 300CC IC bike is a
> bit much to spend.
>
> On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 12:31 PM, Allen Thomas <[email protected]>wrote:
>
>> the cost associated with batteries to provide 100 Amp hours at 96V would
>> be tremendous. Quick check on google it would take 30 of these
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Vehicle-Battery-CALB-LiFePO4-100Ah-EV-Batteries-4-pack-/170765730402#vi-content
>>  connected
>> in serial for a total cost of $17,550, Plus hub motor, controller, charger,
>> and cabling. You are looking at the price of a prius, just to ride a
>> motorcycle on the highway for an hour. It wouldn't get me to work and back.
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 11:27 AM, paul annen <[email protected]>wrote:
>>
>>> kurt, i think this is more of what you are looking at?
>>> http://www.electricmotordepot.com/products/EnerTrac-Hub-Motor-MHM602.html
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 9:27 AM, paul annen <[email protected]>wrote:
>>>
>>>> gerrr it helps if i paste the link
>>>> http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-ELECTRIC-MOTORCYCLE/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 9:27 AM, paul annen <[email protected]>wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> ironically this was in the next email i opened this morning. i havent
>>>>> read it yet, but i thought i would post
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 9:25 AM, paul annen <[email protected]>wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> very true, and i also imagined that the reserve battery would also
>>>>>> function as the starting battery. with a 24v or higher system, i would
>>>>>> recomend replacing the starter with one made for the higher voltages.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> it might make the bike feel totally different, but what about putting
>>>>>> your hub motor in the front wheel?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 12:49 PM, Kurt Nolte <
>>>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I was actually imagining it going the other way, not sure why I
>>>>>>> didn't make that clearer. I envision the motor pack also being the 
>>>>>>> starting
>>>>>>> battery, as well as the reserve battery.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> One or two 12V cells would be devoted as the "stock" battery, and
>>>>>>> with a little coding one could even let the pack controller use the 12V
>>>>>>> alternator to recondition cells as life goes on. Any retrofit package 
>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>> this would likely include a rewound alternator, however.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I realize not all bikes have a rear drum hub, but then not all bikes
>>>>>>> have a chain drive either so that wouldn't be universal either. My 
>>>>>>> target
>>>>>>> market is still largely drum rears, and it would be easy to swap a drum
>>>>>>> rear wheel on those with only disc brakes back there; there are many
>>>>>>> options, factory and aftermarket.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Kurt.
>>>>>>> On Feb 16, 2012 12:35 PM, "paul annen" <[email protected]>
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> you are correct that higher volts will require less amps to do the
>>>>>>>> same work (watts is watts is watts), and i do like the retrofit 
>>>>>>>> option, you
>>>>>>>> could also fairly easily use that rear break to do
>>>>>>>> some regenerative functions as well. but not all bikes have the option 
>>>>>>>> of a
>>>>>>>> rear wheel hub design, you might be better off driving off the existing
>>>>>>>> chain. this way you could also incorporate it as a chain tensioner.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> are you imagining using the bikes charging system? we all know that
>>>>>>>> these are weak links in the vintage hondas (another side note was a 
>>>>>>>> thought
>>>>>>>> to have a small 30amp automotive alt mounted on the swing arm with a
>>>>>>>> sprocket to bypass the rectifier, spring pull the tension on the alt 
>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>> you have an automatic chain tensioner)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 12:25 PM, Kurt Nolte <
>>>>>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Sounds like a good idea for a Range Extended Battery Electric,
>>>>>>>>> which I feel is probably where the auto industry is going to head, for
>>>>>>>>> better or worse.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I like the modular idea, especially the ability to add/subtract
>>>>>>>>> and hot-swap battery packs. One of my primary ideas would actually be 
>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>> devise a "retrofit" package to hybridize most bikes with minimally 
>>>>>>>>> invasive
>>>>>>>>> common parts.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> The core concept its the use of a "hub" or "internal stator" motor
>>>>>>>>> design, pressed into place of the rear drum brake. This allows for a 
>>>>>>>>> direct
>>>>>>>>> drive DC design, high torque and the ability to run electric-only for 
>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>> time.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Rear braking would now be electric, using a variable resistor to
>>>>>>>>> determine braking load, tied to the stock brake pedal. The motor
>>>>>>>>> controller's speed sensor would allow for ABS functionality without
>>>>>>>>> additional parts, as a bonus, and the whole motor assembly shouldn't 
>>>>>>>>> add
>>>>>>>>> more than a pound or two, tops.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Using this, I'd also downsize the engine, generally by a 1/3 but
>>>>>>>>> obviously dependant on the individual bike. The motor torque added in 
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> bottom end of the range would allow riders to feel like the engine 
>>>>>>>>> its much
>>>>>>>>> bigger.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I think that both motor and pack should operate at high voltage,
>>>>>>>>> preferably 36-72+V. This will allow for smaller, more flexible wires 
>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>> also provide a beneficial bump in torque. The pack can still be be 
>>>>>>>>> charged
>>>>>>>>> by a 12V alternator using the right connections and isolator 
>>>>>>>>> circuits. High
>>>>>>>>> voltage packs are also better for the controllers, limiting max 
>>>>>>>>> current
>>>>>>>>> flow.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> That's it from me for now, when I'm on a proper keyboard I'll add
>>>>>>>>> more.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Kurt
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Feb 16, 2012 10:42 AM, "paul annen" <[email protected]>
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>>> > well, my idea was to use as many stock Honda parts as i could,
>>>>>>>>> so that i could market it to honda after. i also want to use a 24v 
>>>>>>>>> system.
>>>>>>>>> this is to make the charging system easy. motor controller and basic
>>>>>>>>> battery set on the chassis with modular extra batteries in saddle 
>>>>>>>>> bags and
>>>>>>>>> a "trunk" with the engine and mobile charger (also modular). my
>>>>>>>>> engine/mobile charger is about as simple as it gets, small engine (can
>>>>>>>>> offer diffrent engine sets for gas, diesel, LP.... ) set at a 
>>>>>>>>> constant rpm
>>>>>>>>> coupled to a 24v automotive alt (yes they make them, mostly for bigger
>>>>>>>>> trucks).
>>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>>> > the modular thought is that if your daily commute is short
>>>>>>>>> enough you dont need the extra weight (and wear) from the engine
>>>>>>>>> and batteries, simply plug it in to charge, but longer commutes the
>>>>>>>>> extra batteries might be needed, for longer trips you will want to 
>>>>>>>>> have the
>>>>>>>>> engine for "on the road" charging. yes, while cruising you will 
>>>>>>>>> probably
>>>>>>>>> use more power then the alt can keep up with, but if you stop every so
>>>>>>>>> often (and leave the charging engine running) you can build charge 
>>>>>>>>> back up.
>>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>>> > my first concept was using standard car batteries, (i was 12,
>>>>>>>>> cut me some slack) now i am thinking that li ion makes a much better
>>>>>>>>> choice, but thats also where the modular design comes in, as battery 
>>>>>>>>> tech
>>>>>>>>> improves, you can upgrade without scrapping the whole bike.
>>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>>> > not that ive spent any time thinking about this at all..
>>>>>>>>> comments and suggestions are welcome..
>>>>>>>>>
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