kurt, i think this is more of what you are looking at? http://www.electricmotordepot.com/products/EnerTrac-Hub-Motor-MHM602.html
On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 9:27 AM, paul annen <[email protected]> wrote: > gerrr it helps if i paste the link > http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-ELECTRIC-MOTORCYCLE/ > > > On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 9:27 AM, paul annen <[email protected]> wrote: > >> ironically this was in the next email i opened this morning. i havent >> read it yet, but i thought i would post >> >> >> On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 9:25 AM, paul annen <[email protected]>wrote: >> >>> very true, and i also imagined that the reserve battery would also >>> function as the starting battery. with a 24v or higher system, i would >>> recomend replacing the starter with one made for the higher voltages. >>> >>> it might make the bike feel totally different, but what about putting >>> your hub motor in the front wheel? >>> >>> >>> >>> On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 12:49 PM, Kurt Nolte >>> <[email protected]>wrote: >>> >>>> I was actually imagining it going the other way, not sure why I didn't >>>> make that clearer. I envision the motor pack also being the starting >>>> battery, as well as the reserve battery. >>>> >>>> One or two 12V cells would be devoted as the "stock" battery, and with >>>> a little coding one could even let the pack controller use the 12V >>>> alternator to recondition cells as life goes on. Any retrofit package for >>>> this would likely include a rewound alternator, however. >>>> >>>> I realize not all bikes have a rear drum hub, but then not all bikes >>>> have a chain drive either so that wouldn't be universal either. My target >>>> market is still largely drum rears, and it would be easy to swap a drum >>>> rear wheel on those with only disc brakes back there; there are many >>>> options, factory and aftermarket. >>>> >>>> Kurt. >>>> On Feb 16, 2012 12:35 PM, "paul annen" <[email protected]> wrote: >>>> >>>>> you are correct that higher volts will require less amps to do the >>>>> same work (watts is watts is watts), and i do like the retrofit option, >>>>> you >>>>> could also fairly easily use that rear break to do >>>>> some regenerative functions as well. but not all bikes have the option of >>>>> a >>>>> rear wheel hub design, you might be better off driving off the existing >>>>> chain. this way you could also incorporate it as a chain tensioner. >>>>> >>>>> are you imagining using the bikes charging system? we all know that >>>>> these are weak links in the vintage hondas (another side note was a >>>>> thought >>>>> to have a small 30amp automotive alt mounted on the swing arm with a >>>>> sprocket to bypass the rectifier, spring pull the tension on the alt and >>>>> you have an automatic chain tensioner) >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 12:25 PM, Kurt Nolte <[email protected] >>>>> > wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Sounds like a good idea for a Range Extended Battery Electric, which >>>>>> I feel is probably where the auto industry is going to head, for better >>>>>> or >>>>>> worse. >>>>>> >>>>>> I like the modular idea, especially the ability to add/subtract and >>>>>> hot-swap battery packs. One of my primary ideas would actually be to >>>>>> devise >>>>>> a "retrofit" package to hybridize most bikes with minimally invasive >>>>>> common >>>>>> parts. >>>>>> >>>>>> The core concept its the use of a "hub" or "internal stator" motor >>>>>> design, pressed into place of the rear drum brake. This allows for a >>>>>> direct >>>>>> drive DC design, high torque and the ability to run electric-only for a >>>>>> time. >>>>>> >>>>>> Rear braking would now be electric, using a variable resistor to >>>>>> determine braking load, tied to the stock brake pedal. The motor >>>>>> controller's speed sensor would allow for ABS functionality without >>>>>> additional parts, as a bonus, and the whole motor assembly shouldn't add >>>>>> more than a pound or two, tops. >>>>>> >>>>>> Using this, I'd also downsize the engine, generally by a 1/3 but >>>>>> obviously dependant on the individual bike. The motor torque added in the >>>>>> bottom end of the range would allow riders to feel like the engine its >>>>>> much >>>>>> bigger. >>>>>> >>>>>> I think that both motor and pack should operate at high voltage, >>>>>> preferably 36-72+V. This will allow for smaller, more flexible wires and >>>>>> also provide a beneficial bump in torque. The pack can still be be >>>>>> charged >>>>>> by a 12V alternator using the right connections and isolator circuits. >>>>>> High >>>>>> voltage packs are also better for the controllers, limiting max current >>>>>> flow. >>>>>> >>>>>> That's it from me for now, when I'm on a proper keyboard I'll add >>>>>> more. >>>>>> >>>>>> Kurt >>>>>> >>>>>> On Feb 16, 2012 10:42 AM, "paul annen" <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>>> > >>>>>> > well, my idea was to use as many stock Honda parts as i could, so >>>>>> that i could market it to honda after. i also want to use a 24v system. >>>>>> this is to make the charging system easy. motor controller and basic >>>>>> battery set on the chassis with modular extra batteries in saddle bags >>>>>> and >>>>>> a "trunk" with the engine and mobile charger (also modular). my >>>>>> engine/mobile charger is about as simple as it gets, small engine (can >>>>>> offer diffrent engine sets for gas, diesel, LP.... ) set at a constant >>>>>> rpm >>>>>> coupled to a 24v automotive alt (yes they make them, mostly for bigger >>>>>> trucks). >>>>>> > >>>>>> > the modular thought is that if your daily commute is short enough >>>>>> you dont need the extra weight (and wear) from the engine and batteries, >>>>>> simply plug it in to charge, but longer commutes the extra batteries >>>>>> might >>>>>> be needed, for longer trips you will want to have the engine for "on the >>>>>> road" charging. yes, while cruising you will probably use more power then >>>>>> the alt can keep up with, but if you stop every so often (and leave the >>>>>> charging engine running) you can build charge back up. >>>>>> > >>>>>> > my first concept was using standard car batteries, (i was 12, cut >>>>>> me some slack) now i am thinking that li ion makes a much better choice, >>>>>> but thats also where the modular design comes in, as battery tech >>>>>> improves, >>>>>> you can upgrade without scrapping the whole bike. >>>>>> > >>>>>> > not that ive spent any time thinking about this at all.. comments >>>>>> and suggestions are welcome.. >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. >>>>>> To post to this group, send email to >>>>>> [email protected]. >>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >>>>>> [email protected]. >>>>>> For more options, visit this group at >>>>>> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. >>>>> To post to this group, send email to [email protected] >>>>> . >>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >>>>> [email protected]. >>>>> For more options, visit this group at >>>>> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. >>>>> >>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. >>>> To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >>>> [email protected]. >>>> For more options, visit this group at >>>> http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. >>>> >>> >>> >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 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