Correction, the second website that Paul listed has 100A/h batteries for
$135 each so that lowers the  battery cost down to $4000. IMHO $6000 for an
ev motorcycle that only has the performance of roughly a 300CC IC bike is a
bit much to spend.

On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 12:31 PM, Allen Thomas <[email protected]>wrote:

> the cost associated with batteries to provide 100 Amp hours at 96V would
> be tremendous. Quick check on google it would take 30 of these
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Vehicle-Battery-CALB-LiFePO4-100Ah-EV-Batteries-4-pack-/170765730402#vi-content
>  connected
> in serial for a total cost of $17,550, Plus hub motor, controller, charger,
> and cabling. You are looking at the price of a prius, just to ride a
> motorcycle on the highway for an hour. It wouldn't get me to work and back.
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 11:27 AM, paul annen <[email protected]>wrote:
>
>> kurt, i think this is more of what you are looking at?
>> http://www.electricmotordepot.com/products/EnerTrac-Hub-Motor-MHM602.html
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 9:27 AM, paul annen <[email protected]>wrote:
>>
>>> gerrr it helps if i paste the link
>>> http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-ELECTRIC-MOTORCYCLE/
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 9:27 AM, paul annen <[email protected]>wrote:
>>>
>>>> ironically this was in the next email i opened this morning. i havent
>>>> read it yet, but i thought i would post
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 9:25 AM, paul annen <[email protected]>wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> very true, and i also imagined that the reserve battery would also
>>>>> function as the starting battery. with a 24v or higher system, i would
>>>>> recomend replacing the starter with one made for the higher voltages.
>>>>>
>>>>> it might make the bike feel totally different, but what about putting
>>>>> your hub motor in the front wheel?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 12:49 PM, Kurt Nolte <[email protected]
>>>>> > wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I was actually imagining it going the other way, not sure why I
>>>>>> didn't make that clearer. I envision the motor pack also being the 
>>>>>> starting
>>>>>> battery, as well as the reserve battery.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> One or two 12V cells would be devoted as the "stock" battery, and
>>>>>> with a little coding one could even let the pack controller use the 12V
>>>>>> alternator to recondition cells as life goes on. Any retrofit package for
>>>>>> this would likely include a rewound alternator, however.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I realize not all bikes have a rear drum hub, but then not all bikes
>>>>>> have a chain drive either so that wouldn't be universal either. My target
>>>>>> market is still largely drum rears, and it would be easy to swap a drum
>>>>>> rear wheel on those with only disc brakes back there; there are many
>>>>>> options, factory and aftermarket.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Kurt.
>>>>>> On Feb 16, 2012 12:35 PM, "paul annen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> you are correct that higher volts will require less amps to do the
>>>>>>> same work (watts is watts is watts), and i do like the retrofit option, 
>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>> could also fairly easily use that rear break to do
>>>>>>> some regenerative functions as well. but not all bikes have the option 
>>>>>>> of a
>>>>>>> rear wheel hub design, you might be better off driving off the existing
>>>>>>> chain. this way you could also incorporate it as a chain tensioner.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> are you imagining using the bikes charging system? we all know that
>>>>>>> these are weak links in the vintage hondas (another side note was a 
>>>>>>> thought
>>>>>>> to have a small 30amp automotive alt mounted on the swing arm with a
>>>>>>> sprocket to bypass the rectifier, spring pull the tension on the alt and
>>>>>>> you have an automatic chain tensioner)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 12:25 PM, Kurt Nolte <
>>>>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Sounds like a good idea for a Range Extended Battery Electric,
>>>>>>>> which I feel is probably where the auto industry is going to head, for
>>>>>>>> better or worse.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I like the modular idea, especially the ability to add/subtract and
>>>>>>>> hot-swap battery packs. One of my primary ideas would actually be to 
>>>>>>>> devise
>>>>>>>> a "retrofit" package to hybridize most bikes with minimally invasive 
>>>>>>>> common
>>>>>>>> parts.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The core concept its the use of a "hub" or "internal stator" motor
>>>>>>>> design, pressed into place of the rear drum brake. This allows for a 
>>>>>>>> direct
>>>>>>>> drive DC design, high torque and the ability to run electric-only for a
>>>>>>>> time.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Rear braking would now be electric, using a variable resistor to
>>>>>>>> determine braking load, tied to the stock brake pedal. The motor
>>>>>>>> controller's speed sensor would allow for ABS functionality without
>>>>>>>> additional parts, as a bonus, and the whole motor assembly shouldn't 
>>>>>>>> add
>>>>>>>> more than a pound or two, tops.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Using this, I'd also downsize the engine, generally by a 1/3 but
>>>>>>>> obviously dependant on the individual bike. The motor torque added in 
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> bottom end of the range would allow riders to feel like the engine its 
>>>>>>>> much
>>>>>>>> bigger.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I think that both motor and pack should operate at high voltage,
>>>>>>>> preferably 36-72+V. This will allow for smaller, more flexible wires 
>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>> also provide a beneficial bump in torque. The pack can still be be 
>>>>>>>> charged
>>>>>>>> by a 12V alternator using the right connections and isolator circuits. 
>>>>>>>> High
>>>>>>>> voltage packs are also better for the controllers, limiting max current
>>>>>>>> flow.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> That's it from me for now, when I'm on a proper keyboard I'll add
>>>>>>>> more.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Kurt
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Feb 16, 2012 10:42 AM, "paul annen" <[email protected]>
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>> > well, my idea was to use as many stock Honda parts as i could, so
>>>>>>>> that i could market it to honda after. i also want to use a 24v system.
>>>>>>>> this is to make the charging system easy. motor controller and basic
>>>>>>>> battery set on the chassis with modular extra batteries in saddle bags 
>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>> a "trunk" with the engine and mobile charger (also modular). my
>>>>>>>> engine/mobile charger is about as simple as it gets, small engine (can
>>>>>>>> offer diffrent engine sets for gas, diesel, LP.... ) set at a constant 
>>>>>>>> rpm
>>>>>>>> coupled to a 24v automotive alt (yes they make them, mostly for bigger
>>>>>>>> trucks).
>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>> > the modular thought is that if your daily commute is short enough
>>>>>>>> you dont need the extra weight (and wear) from the engine and 
>>>>>>>> batteries,
>>>>>>>> simply plug it in to charge, but longer commutes the extra batteries 
>>>>>>>> might
>>>>>>>> be needed, for longer trips you will want to have the engine for "on 
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> road" charging. yes, while cruising you will probably use more power 
>>>>>>>> then
>>>>>>>> the alt can keep up with, but if you stop every so often (and leave the
>>>>>>>> charging engine running) you can build charge back up.
>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>> > my first concept was using standard car batteries, (i was 12, cut
>>>>>>>> me some slack) now i am thinking that li ion makes a much better 
>>>>>>>> choice,
>>>>>>>> but thats also where the modular design comes in, as battery tech 
>>>>>>>> improves,
>>>>>>>> you can upgrade without scrapping the whole bike.
>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>> > not that ive spent any time thinking about this at all.. comments
>>>>>>>> and suggestions are welcome..
>>>>>>>>
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