gerrr it helps if i paste the link
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-ELECTRIC-MOTORCYCLE/

On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 9:27 AM, paul annen <[email protected]> wrote:

> ironically this was in the next email i opened this morning. i havent read
> it yet, but i thought i would post
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 9:25 AM, paul annen <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> very true, and i also imagined that the reserve battery would also
>> function as the starting battery. with a 24v or higher system, i would
>> recomend replacing the starter with one made for the higher voltages.
>>
>> it might make the bike feel totally different, but what about putting
>> your hub motor in the front wheel?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 12:49 PM, Kurt Nolte <[email protected]>wrote:
>>
>>> I was actually imagining it going the other way, not sure why I didn't
>>> make that clearer. I envision the motor pack also being the starting
>>> battery, as well as the reserve battery.
>>>
>>> One or two 12V cells would be devoted as the "stock" battery, and with a
>>> little coding one could even let the pack controller use the 12V alternator
>>> to recondition cells as life goes on. Any retrofit package for this would
>>> likely include a rewound alternator, however.
>>>
>>> I realize not all bikes have a rear drum hub, but then not all bikes
>>> have a chain drive either so that wouldn't be universal either. My target
>>> market is still largely drum rears, and it would be easy to swap a drum
>>> rear wheel on those with only disc brakes back there; there are many
>>> options, factory and aftermarket.
>>>
>>> Kurt.
>>> On Feb 16, 2012 12:35 PM, "paul annen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> you are correct that higher volts will require less amps to do the same
>>>> work (watts is watts is watts), and i do like the retrofit option, you
>>>> could also fairly easily use that rear break to do
>>>> some regenerative functions as well. but not all bikes have the option of a
>>>> rear wheel hub design, you might be better off driving off the existing
>>>> chain. this way you could also incorporate it as a chain tensioner.
>>>>
>>>> are you imagining using the bikes charging system? we all know that
>>>> these are weak links in the vintage hondas (another side note was a thought
>>>> to have a small 30amp automotive alt mounted on the swing arm with a
>>>> sprocket to bypass the rectifier, spring pull the tension on the alt and
>>>> you have an automatic chain tensioner)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 12:25 PM, Kurt Nolte 
>>>> <[email protected]>wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Sounds like a good idea for a Range Extended Battery Electric, which I
>>>>> feel is probably where the auto industry is going to head, for better or
>>>>> worse.
>>>>>
>>>>> I like the modular idea, especially the ability to add/subtract and
>>>>> hot-swap battery packs. One of my primary ideas would actually be to 
>>>>> devise
>>>>> a "retrofit" package to hybridize most bikes with minimally invasive 
>>>>> common
>>>>> parts.
>>>>>
>>>>> The core concept its the use of a "hub" or "internal stator" motor
>>>>> design, pressed into place of the rear drum brake. This allows for a 
>>>>> direct
>>>>> drive DC design, high torque and the ability to run electric-only for a
>>>>> time.
>>>>>
>>>>> Rear braking would now be electric, using a variable resistor to
>>>>> determine braking load, tied to the stock brake pedal. The motor
>>>>> controller's speed sensor would allow for ABS functionality without
>>>>> additional parts, as a bonus, and the whole motor assembly shouldn't add
>>>>> more than a pound or two, tops.
>>>>>
>>>>> Using this, I'd also downsize the engine, generally by a 1/3 but
>>>>> obviously dependant on the individual bike. The motor torque added in the
>>>>> bottom end of the range would allow riders to feel like the engine its 
>>>>> much
>>>>> bigger.
>>>>>
>>>>> I think that both motor and pack should operate at high voltage,
>>>>> preferably 36-72+V. This will allow for smaller, more flexible wires and
>>>>> also provide a beneficial bump in torque. The pack can still be be charged
>>>>> by a 12V alternator using the right connections and isolator circuits. 
>>>>> High
>>>>> voltage packs are also better for the controllers, limiting max current
>>>>> flow.
>>>>>
>>>>> That's it from me for now, when I'm on a proper keyboard I'll add more.
>>>>>
>>>>> Kurt
>>>>>
>>>>> On Feb 16, 2012 10:42 AM, "paul annen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> > well, my idea was to use as many stock Honda parts as i could, so
>>>>> that i could market it to honda after. i also want to use a 24v system.
>>>>> this is to make the charging system easy. motor controller and basic
>>>>> battery set on the chassis with modular extra batteries in saddle bags and
>>>>> a "trunk" with the engine and mobile charger (also modular). my
>>>>> engine/mobile charger is about as simple as it gets, small engine (can
>>>>> offer diffrent engine sets for gas, diesel, LP.... ) set at a constant rpm
>>>>> coupled to a 24v automotive alt (yes they make them, mostly for bigger
>>>>> trucks).
>>>>> >
>>>>> > the modular thought is that if your daily commute is short enough
>>>>> you dont need the extra weight (and wear) from the engine and batteries,
>>>>> simply plug it in to charge, but longer commutes the extra batteries might
>>>>> be needed, for longer trips you will want to have the engine for "on the
>>>>> road" charging. yes, while cruising you will probably use more power then
>>>>> the alt can keep up with, but if you stop every so often (and leave the
>>>>> charging engine running) you can build charge back up.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > my first concept was using standard car batteries, (i was 12, cut me
>>>>> some slack) now i am thinking that li ion makes a much better choice, but
>>>>> thats also where the modular design comes in, as battery tech improves, 
>>>>> you
>>>>> can upgrade without scrapping the whole bike.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > not that ive spent any time thinking about this at all.. comments
>>>>> and suggestions are welcome..
>>>>>
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>>>>
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>>
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