Will, don't mind if I add a two or three cents.

About the deep socket, I own a 1978 CB550K. I threw a metric ruler over the 
spark plug wrench and it looked like 18mm. Those "cheesy" tool kit wrenches 
work fine in my book, especially since they have thin walls. I've 
experienced putting a socket in on a ratchet and the socket is too thick to 
fit between the plug and the walls of the spark plug well. Your mileage my 
vary. If I were you, I'd take a plug down to Ace HW and find a socket that 
fit my plug. It still may or may not get deep enough in to surround the 
plug, though.

About derusting the tank, I've copy/pasted some useful things I've gleaned 
off the web and saved for myself. There are four "recipes" here but two 
active agents, The Works and Etch & Prep. I've used both methods. I can't 
tell you which is better, but I can tell you which is cheaper. A bottle of 
"The Works" at Walmart is about $1.59.

One word of caution: Don't use too strong or for too long. I've got a tank 
out in my garage with no bonks at all, but I left the Works in it too long 
(overnight) and caused pinhole leaks in it. So much for that. Better 
repeated times weak that one time strong, IMHO. Here's what I've got:

_________________________________________________________________

You need:

 2 bottles of “the Works” toilet cleaner

baking soda and water

ISO heet (O-Reilly?)

hair dryer

ATF and Marvel oil

 use the Works full strength for about 45 mins, then dump

flush with baking soda and water to neutralize the acid

shake out as much water as possible

use Iso-heet 
Use a blow drier on "low" to blow some warm air through the tank so it 
won't have condensation problems

 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


1: drain the gas, as much as possible.  
2: pour in 1 gallon full strength phosphoric prep+etch (home depot $15)
3: gave it a couple good shakes, let sit, shake more, let sit, repeat.
4: drained the prep+etch.  Rust was gone as far as I could tell.
5: rinsed 2x with baking soda+water
6: rinsed 2x with just water
7: poured in a bottle of heet, sloshed that around for a few minutes
8: added 2 gallons of gas

No flash rust.

 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Dump in *Klean**-Strip "Prep & Etch"* phosphoric acid

2. neutralized the solution (you mix it with some water) with baking soda 
and water 

3. rinse it out with naphtha and alcohol solvents to remove any residual 
water (iso-heet)

4. coat the inside of the tank with ATF and some Marvel oil to prevent rust 
until you use it next.

 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Plug the bottom with some nitrile gloves and hose clamp

2. Dump in two bottles of “the Works”, slosh it around, and let it sit for 
about two hours

3. About 5 hours later, dilute the mixture to the top with water. 

4. About a week later I can see metal but has the appearance of 
light-moderate surface rust. 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Google any of these sentences and you'll probably find the original right 
away.

You'll want to run the bike off a supply can of gas until you get your tank 
clean. The last thing you want to do is get the carbs clean just to have 
rust come loose from the tank and plug a jet. Remove the petcock when you 
derust and be sure to have a fuel filter between the tank and the carbs 
even after derusting when you get it ready for the road.

I kind of envy you. I've had the 1983 version of my bike on my bucket list 
for some time now. 

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