Have your guy be super careful with that torch, aluminum doesn't give any
warning before it turns into a liquid. Its melting point is roughly 1200
degrees which is a lot lower than the 2000 degrees propane burns at, and
mapp or acetylene burns hotter especially if mixed with oxygen. You should
only need to get it up to the point where solder will melt on the stud (400
degrees), if you have some silver solder (which melts at 800 degrees) you
can use it to test how hot your getting the stud. Like Kurt said by the
time it is glowing red your already past 1200 degrees on the stud and
probably dangerously close to melting it right out of the head. Also work
the stud in both directions when trying to remove it, that one goes for any
bolt/nut/screw that id difficult to remove.

On Thu, Sep 10, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Kurt Nolte <[email protected]>
wrote:

> Don't get the stud glowing hot. Since the head is aluminum you can soften
> the threads that way, you'll damage them pulling it out.
>
> I've had success in the past hitting bolts with a torch, then squirting PB
> or WD at the base to quickly chill the stud/bolt, then hitting it with the
> extractor. Not a lot of the WD, just one short squirt directly where stud
> meets base.
>
> Kurt
> On Sep 10, 2015 8:01 AM, "Alexander Press" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I've heard heat is necessary for extraction no matter what rote you
>> choose. I got a co worker coming to work with a torch today. So I'll keep
>> everyone updated as to how that goes. Tool rental from auto zone I think
>> will be my best bet. Thanks for that suggest.
>>
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