I'll and my 2c here<g>
I have two machines i use in the field,both ME and the viewer has 128meg and the main
print machine
has 256 meg of ram.I find the 256 will crap out after loading and printing a lot of
images
so i need to
reboot several times a dya(usually when he is busy)
When just using PS 6 at home 256 seems fine.Not sure what the HD speed is though.
My XP machine has 256 meg aswell and PS works well on it too,a bit faster than my ME
machines.
As far as Elements,they both have there place.I use El when working with indoor horse
show
stuff.It
has a colour cast eye dropper that works wonders on the photo,but El lacks curves which
also works
wonders.Its also cheaper if you just want to try it before going whole hog on PS 7.
Dave
> Hi Mark,
>
> I have been using PictureIt for my photoediting so far.
> Now I am thinking of moving to Photoshop 7.
> What is the memory requirement for it ? My current machine has Windows ME
> with 256 MB of ram.
> I am planning to have it upgraded to 512 - that is the maximum that old
> machine can accommodate.
> Do I have to move to other machine for memory or 512 MB would be enough ?
> Other point is I am not professional photographer, however, like to play
> with these tools.
> Would PhotoShop Elements be suffiient ?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> >From: Mark Roberts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: Re: OT:- Scanning for Dummies
> >Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 08:23:47 -0500
> >
> >"Peter Jordan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > >I've finally started to scan some of my 35mm trannies, and quickly come
> >to
> > >the conclusion that I don't know what I'm doing.
> > >
> > >I can make scans and some of them look OK, but I have 1001 questions to
> >ask
> > >around, how to prepare the trannies, the optimum dpi, final image size,
> >best
> > >format to hold the scan files in etc.
> >
> >OK. What scanner are you using? (what resolution ate you scanning at?)
> >What image processing software are you using?
> >
> >For images I intend to print I always scan at full resolution (that's
> >3600 dpi for my Kodak RFS 3600) in 16-bit color (48 bits total or 16
> >bits per color). This results in 90-92 megabyte files.
> >
> >I have Photoshop 7 so I can do most of what I need to do in 16-bit mode
> >before saving to 8-bit for archiving and printing.
> >
> >First, use a blower of some kind to get your slide as clean as humanly
> >possible.
> >
> >16-bit mode with my scanner gives basically a RAW file of what the CCD
> >saw, so it's usually quite dark. My first few steps in Photoshop use the
> >Levels adjustment to get the image *roughly* where I want it to be.
> >
> >My first adjustment is of just the bright (right-hand) end of the
> >histogram. Then I fine-tune the image rotation (it's never quite square
> >in the slide scanner) and then crop out the black edges around the
> >border (I make sure my original scan area is slightly larger than the
> >viewable portion of the slide).
> >
> >At this point I can be sure that whatever shows up at the left-hand edge
> >of the histogram (dark end of the scale) is actually dark parts of the
> >image, rather than the unexposed border (well, slide mount, actually) so
> >I use the levels adjustment again to set the darkest point. Then I use
> >levels a third time to set the mid point to *approximately* where I want
> >it.
> >
> >Save after every step :)
> >
> >The next step is removing dust specks with the clone tool. If you (and
> >your lab) have been careful this won't take much time - I recommend
> >doing your scans as soon as possible after having your slides processed.
> >View the image at 100% magnification and clone out those little black
> >spots.
> >
> >At this point you can decide how tricky you want to get. Taking the
> >simple route, you just make final tweaks with the levels tool, convert
> >to 8-bit, save and you're done. I recommend doing a *little* sharpening
> >at this point. I sharpen enough for a 12 x 18 print; that's as big as my
> >printer will do and pretty much as large as I care to go with 35mm film
> >anyway. Smaller print sizes will require more sharpening and that can
> >always be done later at the time of printing.
> >
> >Remember that with scanned film, sharpening is always the
> >*second-to-last* step before printing: After sharpening you should do a
> >second search for dust specks that you didn't catch the first time
> >around (the sharpening will inevitably bring out some that weren't
> >visible, or weren't objectionable, before).
> >
> >For more advanced techniques...
> >
> > >Is there a book or a site along the lines of Scanning 101 that will help
> >me
> > >understand the basics.
> >
> >Photoshop for Photographers, the book that several others have
> >recommended.
> >
> >--
> >Mark Roberts
> >Photography and writing
> >www.robertstech.com
> >
>
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